OXIDATION

[HOTSHOT]

I think you hit the problem right on the head and I think going to a real chrome process is the best thing to do. I'm disappointed though because I was led to believe that this problem wouldn't present itself with the copy chrome kit. I was told that copy chrome was the next best thing to real chrome without all the hassle and the steps required to apply it. I was told also that this process was almost as durable as chrome and that the finish was just a tad bluer than real chrome. At no time was I informed that there was a corrosion problem associated with it. if I was told, I wouldn't have ordered this kit but gotten the triple chrome kit instead. And I was very clear about my intentions to use it on motorcycle parts. Some parts are near the engine like a boot guard on my right floor board to keep my boot off of the hot exhaust pipe. Other parts are a flag bracket attached to the top of the rear fender and a pair of riser/slugs for my handlebars. I used a good quality paste wax on the new parts and that didn't help either. I also applied "Liquid Glass" to them and that failed also. This is a sealer-type product that also protects paint from chipping. Its almost like a tough clear lacquer paint.

One last question, can I apply real chrome over this copy chrome? If so, then I can salvage the parts I've already made and get the chrome finish I was originally looking for. Thanks for your experienced reply. Ken

[showroomexpress]

Ken, Did you ever call tech support @ caswell (Lance) ? And another question I have is, why isnt caswell responding to this post? There has to be a answer for why its so quickly oxidizing and there should also be a way to stop or slow it down. If you have further luck in finding any of these answers please let us know.

[dadkar2]

Hello,

I would think that you could chrome over copy chrome. I'm not sure you'd be happy with the color, but it should work electrochemically. Given the number of times you've already buffed these parts, I would strongly recommend thoroughly cleaning them to remove every possible trace of coatings, wax, and paint. Then I would repolish and reclean, then heavily replate with the standard nickel formulation which works very well. Don't forget to pickle the parts with the sulfuric acid pickle (I believe Caswell calls it Pickle 3) which is roughly 50/50 battery acid and distilled water--before re-nickel plating. Then do the chrome.

I'm heavily biased against using chrome plating around the house. It is a strong carcinogen and can react with other chemicals to emit poisonous gases. A small amount of chromic acid spilled out can contaminate a neighborhood. I don't feel that way about the flash copper (EPI E-Brite Ultra Cu Alkaline Copper) or the nickel formulation (also an EPI product) as long as waste disposal is dealt with in a healthy way. Personally I have a very small system--1.5 gallons. I would love to build up a bigger system but have great concerns about the environmental and health issues that would pose.

I guess just knowing the nature of untreated nickel, I have only considered the copy chrome for interior automotive parts. So the question of its durability near a hot engine part hasn't ever really come up for me.

Kind regards,
Ken

[mikedinmd]

rolls-royce used to use(doubt if now) nickel plating on their bumpers. how did they address this issue? or is the answer that the very affluent have a car guy on the payroll to keep the brightwork polished? mike

[dadkar2]

I must say I don't know. It's tough to tell what is happening to HOTSHOT's parts without seeing it. Best guess is oxidation due to high temperature operation. But could there be hot vapors passing over the parts, leaving deposits? It's just tough to say from here. I DO know that nickel will oxidize black, over time or when exposed to certain acids--even skin oil. But usually the oxidation takes a long time. So, the only guess we have here is that temperature is accelerating the process for him.

A conversation with Mike Caswell is definitely in order.

Kind regards,
Ken