HOW TO REMOVE CHROME

[smokeycity]

I JUST WANT TO KNOW IF SANDBLASTING WOULD REMOVE THE CHROME.SOMEBODY HELP I JUST GOT VERY VERY GOOD AT PLATING THANK'S TO THE HELP OF George W. aka GSW3 AND dadkar2 BUT THIS IS THE HART'S PART OF THE JOB. IF ANYONE OUT THER KNOW A EASYER WAY PLEASE INPUT INPUT INPUT!!

[dadkar2]

I've removed chrome with sandblasting. I use 180 grit aluminum oxide, but I am sure 120 or 150 would work as well (probably faster)--it would just leave a somewhat rougher surface to start the plating process with. I have noticed that I'll see sparks fly for the first few seconds as the chrome coat is broken down. It gives you some idea of how durable that chrome is.

Also, I believe you can remove the chrome with a muriatic solution, and the instructions are laid out in Caswell's manual.

Ken

[dadkar2]

Personally, I would recommend the sandblasting, since it will remove the nickel (and copper) as well. You won't get better surface prep for plating. You can Britex wheel the part after the blasting to smooth it out (recommended), or go directly to flash copper.

Ken

[smokeycity]

ken what is the muriatic solution way please let me know I do not have the caswell book so
PS A FEW MONTHS AGO YOU HELPED ME WITH SOME PLATING TIPS THAT CAME OUT TO BE JUST WHAT I NEED'T YOU SHOULD SEE ME KNOW I'M NOT SAYING THAT I'M A PRO BUT I'M GETTING THER I HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS LEEF THAT I WOULD LIKE TO ASK YOU! LET ME KNOW IF I CAN EMAILYOU WITH MY QUESTIONS

[dadkar2]

Sure. Email is fine. dadkar2@aol.com

[Coley]

I just take my parts to a local plater and he strips them quite reasonibly...

Sandblasting makes too much work for the smoothing of the part...

[dadkar2]

For those of us that don't have local platers: Caswell sells an alkaline solution that can be used via electrolysis to remove chrome plating safely from steel base metal.

If the base metal is non-ferrous, then Pickle 2 can be used to remove chrome, either with electrolysis or by soak method. Pickle 2 is 2 parts water mixed with 1 part muriatic or hydrochloric acid. Any Home Depot carries a good grade of muriatic acid that can be used for this purpose.

The concern about using acid to remove chrome from steel is that you may very well pit and damage the steel. I've done it. I avoid acid and steel. The alkaline chrome and anodize stripper Caswell offers is a better way to go in this case.

ALWAYS follow Caswell's manual instructions for the use of acids and any solution under electrolysis. It's too involved to cover it here in detail, and the Manual covers it very well including carefully drawn pictures and diagrams.

Regarding sandblasting--if you are hard chroming mechanical parts, then Coley's right. But if you're restoring decorative chrome, chances are the part you're restoring is rusted and pitted. If so, to remove rust and pitting you'll prefer to sandblast, since the roughness you're going to clean up afterwards caused by sandblasting is the least of your problems. You'll have to decide which approach is best for you. I use 180 grit aluminum oxide. After a pass with the Brightex wheel, you'd never know it was sandblasted.

Ken

[minord]

While I agree with dadkar2 that sand blasting is the optimum surface for getting plating to stick, you need to be really careful using that as a total stripping method.

What can happen is, as you begin to peel the final layer if plating off, you are actually blasting both the plating and the base metal. This is where you need to really be careful you don't end up with an uneven wavy surface.

The previously described chemical/electro method is probably the best for the very thin layer of chrome, then I like to reverse plate the nickel off in a sulfuric acid bath.

After that, any plating left will be copper, or maybe a little nickel in spots, which blows off real easy with the sand blaster. It saves you a ton of time on the blasting, plus you get a really nice clean surface without having to spend a ton of time at the other end smoothing and flattening your surfrace again.

EXEPTIONS: On white metal (aluminum, pot metal, etc.) sand blasting is about your only option, since those types of metals can't tolerate the acidic chemicals.

Just my $.02 worth................later.

Dave

[Elbrillante]

Originally Posted by smokeycity

I JUST WANT TO KNOW IF SANDBLASTING WOULD REMOVE THE CHROME.SOMEBODY HELP I JUST GOT VERY VERY GOOD AT PLATING THANK'S TO THE HELP OF George W. aka GSW3 AND dadkar2 BUT THIS IS THE HART'S PART OF THE JOB. IF ANYONE OUT THER KNOW A EASYER WAY PLEASE INPUT INPUT INPUT!!

Well SC,I have 4 years plating experience and 10 sandblasting. In the plating shop we used a Muriatic acid tank for removing Chrome. Always left a dull black finish which was buffed off,then part was copper flashed,buffed again and into the chrome tank. Depending on size of part I'm not sure which method would be feasible for you. I've also blasted many Chrome parts,bumpers etc. Using a coarse grit sand at first,then a reblast with powdery sand for a very fine finish. I also used to oil coat the parts to delay oxidation. The customer would have to de-greaase part before flashing and plating. The right blaster shoukld be able to help you with your item. Good Luck, P.S. Chromic acid fumes are VERY toxic,beware, Fred

[Elbrillante]

Originally Posted by smokeycity

I JUST WANT TO KNOW IF SANDBLASTING WOULD REMOVE THE CHROME.SOMEBODY HELP I JUST GOT VERY VERY GOOD AT PLATING THANK'S TO THE HELP OF George W. aka GSW3 AND dadkar2 BUT THIS IS THE HART'S PART OF THE JOB. IF ANYONE OUT THER KNOW A EASYER WAY PLEASE INPUT INPUT INPUT!!

Well SC,I have 4 years plating experience and 10 sandblasting. In the plating shop we used a Muriatic acid tank for removing Chrome. Always left a dull black finish which was buffed off,then part was copper flashed,buffed again and into the chrome tank. Depending on size of part I'm not sure which method would be feasible for you. I've also blasted many Chrome parts,bumpers etc. Using a coarse grit sand at first,then a reblast with powdery sand for a very fine finish. I also used to oil coat the parts to delay oxidation. The customer would have to de-greaase part before flashing and plating. The right blaster shoukld be able to help you with your item. Good Luck, P.S. Chromic acid fumes are VERY toxic,beware, Fred