Copper plate over soder and steel

[keala]

Can i copper plate over lead free soder?
I have started work on a Antique gun and have filled the deep pits with lead free soder i used S.39 self cleaning soder flux. It worked great the soder stuck really good and then i sanded it all smooth What a diffrence, But i could just nickel right over it but there is a few small imperfections so would a copper plate fill these last imperfections and will the copper plate over the soder and steel gun part, Its old soft steel from the 1887s

[fly]

Yes I have good luck with plating over solder (lead free) but to get those little imperfections out you need to make sure you get enough copper so you can buff it down to a smooth surface, make sure you flash copper first then acid copper for about 2hrs. this should give you plenty of copper to play with but be careful and don't let the part get too hot while polishing. If you have enough nickle you might can try to polish it down and get the finish that you need or a very fine 3m disk on a die grinder.

[fxstcguy98]

YOU MUST MAKE SURE YOU GET ALL THE FLUX AND GREASES OFF FIRST. THEN NICKLE STRIKE OR FLASH COPPER STRIKE. I WOULD ONLY DO ACID COPPER FOR AN HOUR AT A TIME AND WET SAND WITH 400 IN BETWEEN COPPER LAYERS. BUFFING WILL NOT WORK AS WELL AS SANDING BECAUSE IT REMOVES THE HIGH AND LOW AREAS. ONLY BUFF FOR THE FINAL SURFACE PREP.

[fly]

Yes, after I use my flux I wash the part in degreaser, and if I need more solder I use a pin type torch from walmart and I use a solder that you would use on wires to fill in the small areas, or if I need a lot of solder I use a lead bar that I got from a kit out of a magazine (eastwood). Once you get enough meat in the area. use a fine 3M disk on a die grinder and then you can use a 180 or 200 sand paper, now your ready for acid copper. Remember when using the die grinder not to get the part hot or you will have to start all over again.