Part cleaning.

[nil8u]

I know this question has probably been asked a million times but can anyone tell me how to properly prep a part for flash copper plating. The part I am plating is about 30 sq" and is steel. It was painted but I stripped the paint and have sanded the part down to 400 grit and polished with black compound and a twine sisal wheel. It looked great and passed the water break test but the flash copper is not uniform. I plated the part at 1.4A for about 15 mins. Is this long enough? When I pulled it out there were some areas that were dark and some areas that were really light. I forgot to mention that when I pickled the part in #4 pickle the dark blackish spots became appearant. I dont think it is because of the copper. What would cause a dark discoloration in certain areas after it was pulled from the pickle?

I have tried a couple of times on this part and every time I think I have it down the bright acid copper that is plated after the flash copper doesnt stick. What am I doing wrong?

Also when the manual says to rinse does it mean with distilled water or tap water. I am thinking distilled but on the website it shows the water break test done in a sink. Also it says to rinse the SP degreaser off in hot water and the pickle should be rinsed off with cold water. Is that distilled cold water?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Lance

[fxstcguy98]

This is what I do for steel. After you have sanded and buffed, clean all the buffing compound off with castrol super clean, then use dish soap and hot water to clean it some more. After you pass water break, I only use distilled water from that point on and never touch the part unless I have on nitril gloves. A quick dip in pickle #2 (not 4), then rinse with a spray bottle, then go into the flash copper live. Rinse and go directly into acid copper live, if you let it sit for a little while, then use the pickle #4 before acid copper. Read the manual more, it's all in there except that the SP degreaser doesn't do **** to buffing compound.

[nil8u]

Dumb question... Does "LIVE" mean wet?

[nil8u]

I have done some more reading and it sounds like "live" or "hot" mean with the power connected. Will someone verify this for me? What are the benifits and should I go "hot" into every tank?

[ryanbooton]

Ya it means with your power set to the right volts and your hanger connected to your bus bar.

[somnambulant]

Live means there is voltage applied to the anode(+) and the cathode(-) wire is connected to the part. In short it's got juce ready to flow.

[dwoodruff]

won't you get shocked, putting the part in to the liquid while it's connected, while the hot is on and live?

[ryanbooton]

No you wont. At most you will feel a little tingle except for the chrome tank but that doesnt need to be real high to start. Your messin with dc not ac.

[jimcarry]

After you have prepd and polished the part sp will work fine most people think you just soak it and all is well the fact of the matter is even the reps at Caswells use a rag to ensure the part has no compound residue left on it . So soak the part in SP use a rag to clean it in the Sp this is how I do it and It works great always wear gloves when working with these chemicals most parts plate at 2 to 4 volts you will not get a shock from this low of a current although if you stick your un-gloved hand into the solution you may feel it

[mcaswell]

You mentioned black spots. I'd suggest this may be because the part had been zinc plated at some point. Just to make sure, prior to sanding, dip in any acid for a few minutes, (weak sulfuric/muriatic etc) if the zinc is present, it will turn black and you can then sand it off.