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Thread: Wanting to do golf clubs - some basic questions

  1. Wanting to do golf clubs - some basic questions

    Hello,

    I've done a search of the forums regarding re-finishing golf clubs and while I understand most of it, I've got a couple of questions that I don't understand.

    The golf clubs that I'm working on will all be carbon steel. They will all be at least 25 years old, and will have dings, gouges, and chrome missing. I will be taking these clubs in, grinding them on a 100-grit belt, then a Trizact belt, followed by a convolute wheel and then polishing to either a satin chrome finish or a mirror chrome finish using Emory cake and/or white rouge. In some cases welding may be involved to correct major gouges. I understand that I need to completely remove the chrome before I re-plate them or I'll have some peeling problems with the chrome. I'll be doing all of this work in my garage, and while it's well ventilated, I still would like to use the most environmentally friendly chemicals possible. I will be doing this mainly in Fla. and Penn.

    The questions that I'm not clear on are:

    1. During the course of grinding, I'll probably get "most" of the chrome off. However, I know that there will be chrome down beneath the lettering, numbering, in the grooves, etc. that I won't be able to grind out. Someone recommended that I use a wand to get to those hard to reach places, while another person suggested that a bath in 2:1 muriatic acid would also strip the chrome. Which method would be best?

    2. Similar to Question #1, I suspect there will be nickel and copper underneath the chrome. Again, I'll probably get most of it with the grinding process, but will I need to get all of it off as well (as I do with the chrome), or can I merely grind and polish this? If I do need to get the copper and nickel completely removed, what is the appropriate method of doing this?

    3. Now that I've got the club to a point where I'm ready to refinish it, the question comes up what should I finish it with? I've read great things about Copy Chrome, and in discussions with people it should hold up as well as regular chrome. Can anyone comment on the durability of Copy Chrome vs. regular chrome, especially on golf clubs?

    4. If the CopyChrome will hold up, would it be appropriate to state that these clubs have been "re-chromed" (i.e. using the 3-plate process), or am I mis-representing myself by using Copy Chrome and calling them "chromed"?

    I greatly appreciate any help that anyone can give me. Thanks.
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  2. Re: Wanting to do golf clubs - some basic questions

    bump to see if anybody can help me out. Thanks.
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  3. Join Date
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    Re: Wanting to do golf clubs - some basic questions

    It's excellent that you are doing your homework. You have alot of question which in metal finish you can get an answer.

    First, I have over 25 years of experience in plating and some. The first thing I never seen chrome peel (chrome is 0.000050" thick). What peels is the under layers of plating copper and nickel.

    To get as close to the original finish you must strip the plating to the base metal which means chemically. Grinding is the worse because you change your parts design.

    Stripping plating:

    1. Chrome- 30-50% hydrochloric acid rm temp. time few seconds. Try to
    Calibrate your eye to what chrome plating looks to nickel plating.
    You can use reverse current (anodic) using stainless steel anodes.
    2. Remove nickel with Caswell nickel stripper.
    3. Remove copper with Caswell copper stripper.
    4. Now buff your part in order to see if all plated metal has been removed.
    5. If nickel or copper remains repeat the strip operation.
    6. Now you need to fill any any steel defects using wielding copper wire.
    7. Grind & buff for plating.
    8. There is a process called electroforming which you might do some research
    because it is a process to buildup plating over 0.001"-0.025" thick.
    9. Buff and plate.

    Now for alternate finish, yes there are but are expenses. Look up the chemical vendors for options.
    Write back for more detail information.
    Nol4154

    I've done a search of the forums regarding re-finishing golf clubs and while I understand most of it, I've got a couple of questions that I don't understand.

    The golf clubs that I'm working on will all be carbon steel. They will all be at least 25 years old, and will have dings, gouges, and chrome missing. I will be taking these clubs in, grinding them on a 100-grit belt, then a Trizact belt, followed by a convolute wheel and then polishing to either a satin chrome finish or a mirror chrome finish using Emory cake and/or white rouge. In some cases welding may be involved to correct major gouges. I understand that I need to completely remove the chrome before I re-plate them or I'll have some peeling problems with the chrome. I'll be doing all of this work in my garage, and while it's well ventilated, I still would like to use the most environmentally friendly chemicals possible. I will be doing this mainly in Fla. and Penn.

    The questions that I'm not clear on are:

    1. During the course of grinding, I'll probably get "most" of the chrome off. However, I know that there will be chrome down beneath the lettering, numbering, in the grooves, etc. that I won't be able to grind out. Someone recommended that I use a wand to get to those hard to reach places, while another person suggested that a bath in 2:1 muriatic acid would also strip the chrome. Which method would be best?

    2. Similar to Question #1, I suspect there will be nickel and copper underneath the chrome. Again, I'll probably get most of it with the grinding process, but will I need to get all of it off as well (as I do with the chrome), or can I merely grind and polish this? If I do need to get the copper and nickel completely removed, what is the appropriate method of doing this?

    3. Now that I've got the club to a point where I'm ready to refinish it, the question comes up what should I finish it with? I've read great things about Copy Chrome, and in discussions with people it should hold up as well as regular chrome. Can anyone comment on the durability of Copy Chrome vs. regular chrome, especially on golf clubs?

    4. If the CopyChrome will hold up, would it be appropriate to state that these clubs have been "re-chromed" (i.e. using the 3-plate process), or am I mis-representing myself by using Copy Chrome and calling them "chromed"?

    I greatly appreciate any help that anyone can give me. Thanks.
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