![]() |
|
|||||||
| Notices |
| Electroplating Questions Discussion Board For Electroplating and Electroless plating. |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
Totally new to this plating thing.
These questions reflect my ignorance. I have a vintage snare drum with badly yellowed hardware. To replace the hardware, would cost $70 or less. The hardware is about the size of a person's thumb or smaller. So I figure the brush plating is what I need to use. Questions: 1. What do I use to clean the hardware before replating with nickel? 2. Can I re-nickel using the brush plating system over the old nickel? 3. Do I have to take off the old nickel finish before I brush plate? 4. Do I have to brush plate the pieces more than once? 5. Do I have to polish over the old nickel before I re-plate? If so, what materials do I use to polish before I replate? 6. If the old nickel is corroded or worn through, what do I do then? 7. If I brush plate and get a new nickel plating, what do i then polish with or can I than polish at all? 8. Is the brush plate finish equivalent to the original nickel finish in terms of durability? |
|
|||
|
Thank you CarWiz for your response.
From your response, just to be clear, are these the steps I take? 1. Remove parts 2. Polish the part to the finish you want it to look like after plating. The plating will conform to that finish. Scratches will show as well as pits or flaking. You can polish the part by hand or with a buffing wheel and polishing compounds. 3. Clean/scrub the part with a heated degreaser to remove all buffing compounds. 4. Follow with rinse in distilled water. 5. Clean the part with Acetone or Denatured Alcohol. 6. Then rinse the part again with distilled water. 7. Go to the acid bath for a soak for 2 minutes. 8. Rinse in distilled water. 9. Plate (Don't let the part dry out once it's activated.) Can I use muratic acid for the acid bath? Thank you again for the response. |
|
||||
|
I didn't have much luck with muriatic (hydrochloric) acid the last time I tried it over old nickel & brass. HCL didn't seem to break the surface tension and I couldn't get a good water break test. I switched to sulfuric and it was better. In other words, HCL may work but I didn't want to take the chance. The "book" says to use sulfuric too.
I do mostly small parts so for rinsing I use a couple of 32oz. spray bottles. I fill them with warm distilled water so I know I get a fresh rinse each use. You'll also use less water than trying to keep a fresh bucket of rinse water. It's also my water break tester. You can get the spray bottles at hardware stores or just about anywhere. Wash it out before use. |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| brush plating pot metal | goldmankc | Plating Pot Metal | 3 | 06-22-2007 08:10 PM |
| brush plating | rboyer | Electroplating Questions | 1 | 06-19-2007 09:48 AM |
| Just a few questions about Nickel plating | dgaspin | Electroplating Questions | 6 | 04-29-2005 07:28 PM |
| Metal Polishing Questions for Nickel Plating | pelletman | Metal Polishing Questions | 3 | 07-31-2004 02:09 AM |
| Differet copper plating questions, plus copy chrome/ nickel? | krsimulis | Electroplating Questions | 1 | 07-26-2004 12:25 AM |