Need help with polishing motor / angle grinder

[Elby]

Originally Posted by woodjames

The orange peel could be a number of things. The black compound won't quite cut the stainless enough to completely level things out, it may be in the metal to begin with, and with a higher level of gloss comes an exponential level of highlighting defects.

That's kinda what I was thinking.

I did find this in the caswell tech support area., How To Use Greaseless Compounds - Powered By Kayako SupportSuite

The greasless appears to have the consistency of play-dough, but comes in a plastic tube. Kinda like pork sausage.

The glue tight comes in a carboard tube, and looks like a kind of black shiny gelatin. It's about 2" down inside the tube though. Am I supposed to cut the carboard down to get to it? If so, am I supposed to let the buffing wheel contact / cut-away the cardboard tube as i apply the glu-tight?? Seems like that would contaminate the wheel pretty badly, but with 400 grit it might not matter. It looks to have been poured in there, so I don't think I'm going to get it out without a spoon.

[woodjames]

I don't think it'd matter, just let the wheel cut into it. Keep the greasless in a 'fridge, cause it can dry out fast, and as soon as that happens it's useless. I keep it in a ziplock bag with a damp washcloth tossed in with it.

Originally Posted by Elby

That's kinda what I was thinking.

I did find this in the caswell tech support area., How To Use Greaseless Compounds - Powered By Kayako SupportSuite

The greasless appears to have the consistency of play-dough, but comes in a plastic tube. Kinda like pork sausage.

The glue tight comes in a carboard tube, and looks like a kind of black shiny gelatin. It's about 2" down inside the tube though. Am I supposed to cut the carboard down to get to it? If so, am I supposed to let the buffing wheel contact / cut-away the cardboard tube as i apply the glu-tight?? Seems like that would contaminate the wheel pretty badly, but with 400 grit it might not matter. It looks to have been poured in there, so I don't think I'm going to get it out without a spoon.

[Elby]

Originally Posted by woodjames

I haven't used the glu-tite, so can't make any recommendations there as far as how much to use, be sure to post what you find, as I'd like to find a better way to work with greasless.

Since you asked......
The glu-tite reminds me very much of polyurethane or dried silicone. When it touches the wheel it WILL grab and try to yank it out of your hands. Very scary if you aren't fully prepared for it. Definitely a two-handed job. It seems to melt onto the buff. Getting it off your fingers/tools/clothes requires scraping it loose. This will leave a black shiny slick on the buff and throw off little stringy messy fine hair-like stuff. Just like when you melt plastic only more little hairs. If you get a good black slick look to your buff, you've probably got too much on. Oh, and I did peel back the cardboard tube.

The 400 grit compound didn't make much of a mess at all. Maybe it's because I used the glu-tite? I don't know for sure as I don't have anything for comparison. It wasn't nearly as messy as the regular black compound either when applying to the buff or when working on the part.

This last weekend was probably my last decent weather weekend to do this project and I can't say I improved it any. The 400 greasless did remove the orange peel, but I STILL can't get a decent polish. If the temperature keeps dropping like it has been It'll be next spring before I'm willing to go back out there and work on it long enough to do anything productive. What I really need is some experienced on-site hands-on guidance. Maybe next spring.