Question about your Extra Long Shaft Adapters..

[rerod]

I have this 1hp baldor motor..
http://www.motoragents.com/pdf/Baldor/VL1309.pdf

And would like to use it for buffing chrome parts. The shaft is keyed and 5/8 diameter.

Is the Extra Long Shaft Adapters the part I want and which thread? L hand?

Is a 8" diameter buffing wheel suggested for the 3450 rpm?

Thanks!

[Rasper]

I personally prefer a smaller wheel at that speed, but then I usually buff small, complex pieces with lots of edges to catch on the wheel. Try a six and an eight and see which suits you.

R

[rerod]

Thanks Rasper.. I will get both 6" & 8"

Do you know the answers to my other question?

Left hand, right hand threads...

[rerod]

The motor is labeled Right hand rotation but thats looking from the rear of the motor. If you look at the output shaft side it spins left hand... So Im guessing I need right hand threads so startup would tighten the nut if it were loose?

[Rasper]

Yes, you want the shaft to turn so that it tightens the nut as it turns. If you have a double ended machine you will need one right hand and one left hand threaded end and nut.

R

[rerod]

Thanks!

Im making a order soon so I have the gear to polish aluminum and chrome.

Am I missing anything or buying something I don't need?


6) 80 Ply Spiral Sewn Cotton Wheel 6"
1) Wheel Rake
1) Large Bar Starter Pack includes all 6 compounds
1) White Liquid Rouge (alum)
1) Extra Long Shaft Extender
1) Assorted Felt Bob Kit

Basket Total $120.82

Thanks again..

[Rasper]

That's more than I've ever had in my years of buffing. Sounds like a good start.

R

[TonyStarks]

I'm not a professional by any means and I'm still learning the art of buffing but If I'm not mistaken, shouldn't you really have a rake for each compound? If I understood correctly from others on the forum, if you use just one rake across all of your different wheels loaded with different compounds, you stand to experience a good bit of cross contamination which of course, is NEVER a good thing. If I'm wrong, certainly correct me as I've been using a different rake for each type of compound to avoid spreading the compound that accumulates on the teeth.

Your list looks good otherwise as a very basic setup . . but I'd just add that it always helps to know what you will be buffing. I think you will find that depending on what you plan on buffing, you will find yourself returning to the Caswell site to order other parts better suited to the particular material you are working with!

Good luck and Cheers!

[rerod]

Originally Posted by rerod

Im making a order soon so I have the gear to polish aluminum and chrome.

..

aluminum and chrome.

[XK120DHC]

Originally Posted by TonyStarks

... but If I'm not mistaken, shouldn't you really have a rake for each compound? If I understood correctly from others on the forum, if you use just one rake across all of your different wheels loaded with different compounds, you stand to experience a good bit of cross contamination which of course, is NEVER a good thing. If I'm wrong, certainly correct me as I've been using a different rake for each type of compound to avoid spreading the compound that accumulates on the teeth.

I respectfully disagree with Tony Sparks about using a different rake for each compound (if you have compound building-up on your rake, you are using WAY too much compound on your wheels! The teeth on my rake are shiny clean.. the buff takes care of that).. However, Tony IS on the right track about cross-contamination of buffing wheels.. I believe (and many others agree) that one should have one wheel (or sets of wheels*) for each type of compound.. In other words, a 6" & an 8" for use with Emery, another 6" & 8" for White Rouge, etc. This all but guarantees the avoidance of cross contamination. If one "must" use one wheel for multiple compounds, you had better rake the hell out of it! (which results in smaller diameter wheels in short order) All it takes is one little missed streak of a coarse compound when doing a final buff to screw the pooch..
(* Sets of Wheels.. Depending on what one is buffing, I have found that using multiple 1/2" wide wheels [sets for each compound] to be advantageous.. That is, use one 1/2" wheel to get into small areas, three, four or more 1/2" wheels for wide areas. By using one narrow wheel, one can avoid mashing the wheel and deforming or otherwise tearing it up. Using several wheels for wide areas reduces the risk of "cutting streaks" and it helps to make buffing large flat areas go quicker. In other words, "tune" the width of your wheels to the width of your work. I hope this makes sense).
Lastly, keep your buffing wheels and compound bars in "Freezer grade" ziplock type baggies (the freezer grade type is thicker) and label each baggie/wheel with the type of compound used on that wheel (use a 3x5 card), also individually "tag & bag" your compound.. you'd be surprised how quick one can forget which is which.. especially when two different types are the same color! Using baggies also helps to avoid another area of contamination.. plain old shop dust, dirt and debris. I use the "Gallon" size freezer baggies.
Use common sense and work-out your own methods and systems..