Aluminum Engine parts - I'm ok, but I want perfection!

[duke]

i guess i'll just have to bite the bullet & build a workshed in the back yard.
it's to cold at this time of year to work in the garage anyway.
cheers

[skiddz]

Sounds like a personal problem. :) It was pretty nice here yesterday. Mid 60s, sun was out and the breeze was relatively warm. I actually broke out in a sweat buffing in the sun. (Or was I sunning in the buff??)

<GLOAT>
man it sucks to be in Southern California in the winter. hehehe
</GLOAT>

[tribalimage]

Just got an 8" buffer; 3/4 hp, 3450 rpm, 3/4" shaft.
It appears that it needs pads at least 3/4" thick to work. Right?

Here goes...I need the Right Stuff . I'll be polishing aluminum on my bike 90% of the time.

I've been reading a lot of the posts from this awsome forum, and trying to put everything in prospective. Only doing a fair job of it though.

Before getting the buffer I spent 8 hrs. sanding the aluminum parts I made for my new luggage rack with the following; 80 grit, then 120, 220, 330, 440 and finally 660.

Then went to polish it with a buffer we have at work, drill press, stupid stuff.

Started buffing, only to find out that I didn't completely remove one of the earlier layers of sanding 100%. ARGH!!!!! I was about to throw them across the shop before spending another 8 hrs trying to rectify the mess. "THAT's" when I knew I had to take it to the next step.

"Most aluminum I use is just mill finish".

Need to know:

METAL PREP WHEELS and COMPOUND(S)
1. What are the right wheels to use to avoid all the sanding BS I went through before?
2. Can I eliminat the sanding by just using compound and the right wheel?
3. What compounds and order should be used?
4. Do I need to have a separate wheel for each compound used?

POLISHING WHEELS and COMPOUND(S)
1.Size and type to get the best possible results, in what order, with what compound.

Thanks for your patience, I just want to be as good as all of you.

Jake

[tomg552001]

This is a simple explanation of how i go about polishing aluminum. Sand with greaseless compound on a spiral sewn whee(4 inch) on a low speed drill. I usually start with a 120-240. I than hand wet sand with a 320/400 grit to even the surface up. I than move to 8 inch double stacked sisal wheels with the black super sisal emory compound. Use very little compound often at this step. Spend a LOT of time on this step as the more you do now, the better it looks in the end. Pay careful attention to your cutting and polishing actions. I next move onto double stacked 6 inch loose wheels with the normal white rouge compound. Use more compound less often here. This gives me great results are seems to work the best for me. Polishing technique varies from person to person so it involves a lot of trial an error. Also pickup a set of long shaft extenders for your buffer, it makes life easiar. If you're using the buffer i think you are, dont use 8 inch loose or spiral sewn (if you decide to use brown rouges), its not strong enough, use 6 inchers. ALso make sure to clean with brake cleaner/alcohol inbetween compounds to prevent cross contamination. Always use different wheels with different compounds, never share. A hot part is a good part when it comes to polishing, it helps the compounds fluidize and work better. Theres tons of little tips we can all tell you, but the basics are where you should start and from there you'll learn tons more. Good luck.

i been using the greaseless on my buffer @3500 rpm and it has been holding up for 30 min..it tears up the part if you are not careful... but with a low speed you get more time out of the bad ... but use i pad for each compound ... and they will add up like a bunch of rabbits ....

[tribalimage]

Grand Wazoo of Buffing,

My buffer has 3/4"-12 shafts, but I didn't see any on the site that go that big. Are they out there?

Glad you gave me the heads up on wheel sizes, as I thought I needed 8" wheels for everything.

On polishing it sounds like I'm better off just buying Black & White, and forget the rest.

Jake

[tomg552001]

You'll need to grind the ends of the buffer shafts down so the extenders fit on. Than you can modify the hold down screw or tack weld them, in place. Make sure you get the super sisal black, it works much better, and i get better results with the plain old white. Like caswell said, give the free buffing guide a read.

[tribalimage]

Grinding the shafts down sounds a little hairy. I'm thinking turn the buffer on and go at it with a file? What's scary is if for any reason the shafts get out-a-round, sounds like time to buy a new buffer....you know, shafts are shot.

Are those cone extension things any better, faster for quicker changes of wheels?

[tomg552001]

You can try that, i ddi it with a grinder cause my buffer also has fatter shafts and it worked fine.