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| Metal Polishing Questions Discussion Board For metal polishing questions. |
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Hello guys, I’m new to the boards hoping to get some help.
I have been polishing engine parts on my car for a while now and am wondering about my process. I just have been following the way I was told by a friend, which works most the time, but I often run into problems which take forever to fix. Here’s what I do for aluminum coated in the factory casting junk. Sand w/40, move to 80, to 120, to 180, 220, 320 to get it as smooth as possible, all chunks out, etc. No dings, dents, bumps, pimples. Then I move to Tripoli on a spiral sewn wheel. Lastly I use white rouge. I HAD been using a spiral sewn wheel but moved to a looser flap wheel and haven’t seen much improvement. So I will probably move back to a spiral sewn. I have been able to produce shiny results but never a perfect mirror-like finish. I’ve gotten to “blurry mirror” status, which still looks amazing from a foot away, but I’m always wanting better. It’s a sickness, as you know! I’m also using a 1400RPM drill which I’m sure needs to be replaced for something more fit and quick for the job. Before I move on to the next grit of sanding (which I do on a vibrating sander, then by hand) I always make sure it’s as smooth as I think it can get. I’m thinking I might be missing something here as I do get a few scratches left over. Am I to sand endlessly without seeing or feeling any results? I’m not sure if they are there and I just can’t tell. Would it be beneficial to use emery before OR in place of tripoli? Here’s a sunlit picture of my engine for anyone interested. The intake is the part I’m mostly worried about right now, as it’s large and prominent in the engine bay. It’s driving me nuts! ![]() If that doesn’t work, you can click on: http://members.aol.com/mansonozz/engine.jpg Thanks! Dave |
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Also - I'm wondering if a metal polish, like Wynol or Mothers, would help me in that final stage to get the mirror like shine I want. They CLAIM it'll work, but I'm very skeptical when it comes to spending $10 per bottle or more, when it only takes me 5 minutes to decide whether it works or not. That's extra buffs I could be buying!
-Dave |
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I know exactly what you mean. I bought my bike and got the bug and its become an all consuming part of my life now. Its never good enough. I can email some digital pics I took of the frame of the bike and you will see how detailed I am. Its one of the newer crotch rockets so part of the frame is rough cast and at the weld it becomes a silver anodized. The rough cast being the pain to level down. [/img]
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Your process just needs to be modified, along with your tooling in my opinion. You should be polishing at between 2500-3600 RPM or so with 4-6 inch wheels. I personally use a 3450 buffer, with 8 inch sisals and 6 inch spiral sewns and loose wheels. Your 2 biggest problem are your tool speeds, and the fact that you're not using a sisal. 75% of the real polishing should be done with sisal wheels and black emory/super sisal compound. I dont even use brown, i go right to white after black. I suggest picking up a bench top buffer as your first step. Here is a pic of a few things i've done using the above mentioned method (black on a sisal and white on a loose):
http://www.trgperformance.com/NewPics/Polish/b16a6.JPG http://www.trgperformance.com/NewPic...6fuelrail2.JPG http://www.trgperformance.com/NewPic...22plugcov2.JPG My camera is horrible and as we all know polished parts NEVER photograph well. Good luck. |
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i think the thought of all that polish flying around and making a mess frightens me, as i only have 1/2 a double garage to work in.
she who must be obeyed would be very upset if i got polish on her car, or on the floor on her side cheers |
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