Sounds like you need a little tweaking to your process.
The 8" wheel on a 3450 RPM buffer generates a bit too much surface speed, but you should be ok. For aluminum, you want right around 5,000 surface feet per minute. A 6" wheel at that RPM nets you right around 5,400 SFPM which is close enough.
Now, what I'm about to say is *MY* way of doing things and not the end-all, be-all method. It works for me and works well.
The first thing you should do is apply compound a bit more often. Every few minutes isn't quite enough. I apply compound about every 30 seconds, but don't grind several metric tons of the stuff into the wheel. A 3-5 second touch is all I do. This keeps the wheel cutting and makes the wheel do more of the work.
I don't do the sisal/black anymore. I've found I get better results by sanding extremely well then starting with brown on a treated, vented buff, then green on a tight spiral then white on a loose cotton or flannel wheel.
I think you're on the right track when you mention using white with a loose cotton wheel. Most of the haziness I've experienced comes at this step. Pay attention to your direction of buffing. I use brown and green in the cutting direction only (against the rotation of the wheel) and rotate my pass direction 45-90 degrees between compounds. Cleaning between compounds is a very good idea as well.
Once you get to the white rouge, slow down a bit. White doesn't cut worth a d*mn and you need to take some extra time with it. Moderate pressure may be required with the loose wheel, but don't press too hard. These loose wheels grab your workpiece quite easily and can (and will!) propel it across your shop at high velocity if they grab an edge.
Again, add compound often and let it do the work for you. I polish with white in the "color" direction only. (move the piece in the same direction as the rotation of the wheel) and I do 2-3 passes, varying the direction of the pass 45 to 90 degrees between passes. (i.e do the entire piece one way, then rotate 45-90 degrees, do it again, then repeat once more) A little extra work, but I get really nice results this way.
As for cleaning a wheel to try a different compound, I wouldn't recommend it. You'll never be able to get all the old compound off the wheel and you'll just make more work for yourself. With the low price of wheels, it's better to stock up on wheels and always use a particular wheel (or set of wheels) for a particular compound. I label all my wheels near the center holes with a Sharpie pen to indicate which compounds they should be used with. I have individual boxes for each set of wheels/rakes and compounds that comprise a "set" and I keep them sealed and far away from the buffer when I'm polishing. (Avoids cross contamination) I'll bet I have close to 40 wheels in varying sizes for just buffing compounds. I have close to that many for greasless compounds. (and I'm just a hobbyist!! eheheh)
As for raking, I rake the tight spirals a little before beginning a new piece. Each compound has it's own rake (again, to avoid cross contamination) and it's labeled accordingly. I rarely rake my loose cotton wheels as they really get torn up in the raking process. I almost never rake my treated wheels. When they get grungy, I run 'em on the buffer and press an old terry cloth towel to the face to clean 'em up a bit. Just be careful the rag doesn't get caught up in the wheel and pull your hand into the buffer. Better if you have to walk across the shop to pick the rag up off the floor. :)
You will see buildup on every wheel you use to polish with - it's normal. Just try to keep cross contamination to a minimum and you should be fine.
Sorry I was so long winded and I hope I didn't make it all sound harder than it really is. Unfortunately there's no "magic" method to maiing it all work. Everyone has their own methods and tricks. Practice and patience will help. Also, preparation is the MOST important step. If the part looks like it's been chewed on by a pack of rabid ferrets, it's not going to polish up very well. Sand it until it's scratch/ding/nick free, then sand it some more. I usually stop at 400 grit unless I really see a need to step up to 600 grit. I never go any further than that and get a mirror-like shine almost every time.
Keep at it and you'll figure out your own method. Good luck!
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