Need help polishing my wheels: PLEASE!

[pickleboy]

the list looks like you got most every thing you need. i would also gat some soft cloth wipes from somewhere for when you use the flitz and for cleaning between steps. the drill you want to upgrad to will work better for the extra money. i would also get some scrap aluminum form somewhere to practice the greaseless with before tackling your wheels. that way you will have some time to learn how to work it.

[EazyM3]

will this tool work better for $99

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...4+3966&pos=n24

can i use that 5/8" adapter from Caswell's for this? It's 10,000 RPM and 8.5 amps?

[sswee]

Too many RPM's. A router would be hard to handle also.
SS

[EazyM3]

okay, i'm probably just going to upgrade my drill to the 9 amp/3000 RPM one. anyways, i 80% completed sanding down the first rim with 150 grit paper. i actually started at 220, but 150 seemed more appropriate.

when sanding with 150 grit by hand, is it supposed to look all scratched up like this? here's a side by side comparison...

also, should i just wait for my Caswell supplies to get here rather than sanding by hand up to 600? would i get the same quality using a drill and greaseless compounds?

[pickleboy]

Originally Posted by EazyM3

i actually started at 220, but 150 seemed more appropriate.

when sanding with 150 grit by hand, is it supposed to look all scratched up like this? here's a side by side comparison...

also, should i just wait for my Caswell supplies to get here rather than sanding by hand up to 600? would i get the same quality using a drill and greaseless compounds?

you have to be the judge as to where to start. i always start at 220 then move back if needed. if you start to coarse you will add more work.
as for the scratches yes it will look bad at first but each new grit will get better. i would wait for the greaseless as it will save a good bit of hand sanding. since you started on one you may want to finish it by hand while you wait for the supplies. this will give you an appreciation for the power buffing. also if you have not read it yet i highly suggest that you read through the caswell buffing manual located here
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm
this will give you some good info on this project in general also look through this sticky thread.
http://forum.caswellplating.com/show...inear#post7212
look at post #'s 1-4

[EazyM3]

thanks for both those links... there was a lot of good information on there. after applying Flitz towards the end, i am planning to clear coat the wheels with VHT spray clear. zoopseal is too expensive and powder coating is out of the question for me on wheels. but anyways, if i clear the polished wheels, how do i maintain them? i obviously can't polish them with the clear on there, rigth? do i just maintain them using soap and water? maybe even wax on the clear?

[pickleboy]

i have not used the vht but can assume that like any paint it should be maintained by washing with a mild dish soap and wax with a good quality wax.

[mpierich]

Originally Posted by EazyM3

thanks for both those links... there was a lot of good information on there. after applying Flitz towards the end, i am planning to clear coat the wheels with VHT spray clear. zoopseal is too expensive and powder coating is out of the question for me on wheels. but anyways, if i clear the polished wheels, how do i maintain them? i obviously can't polish them with the clear on there, rigth? do i just maintain them using soap and water? maybe even wax on the clear?

Careful. I use Flitz as a final hand rub, but I do believe that it leaves a small amount of wax behind - so clean it well before you apply anything.

[EazyM3]

well, right after i was done with the black compound, i sprayed Easy Off (oven cleaner) all over the first wheel thinking it would clean up the residue compound before i went to white. well, the thing ended up messing up my aluminum rim and seaping into the metal. any way i clean that stuff off? i was able to polish it out, but on parts of the rim where i want it bare, i can't get the spotting out...

[pickleboy]

do you have access to a blast cabinet? if so you can fully mask off the polished parts with a good quality duct tape and glass bead the areas that are spotted. this should bring back the original satin finish. also as you found out easy off is not for cleaning the aluminum it should be used for removing anodizing. the best i have found is spray brake cleaner available from any auto parts store.