Is it ok to go to greaseless after wet sanding?

[x1rider]

I am polishing a valve cover and there are a few surface cracks probably due to heat expansion. I was planning on sanding at 320 and 400 dry and then wet sanding to 600 or 1000. Is it ok after wet sanding to go to a buffing wheel with 180 and 240 greaseless or should I go right to emery and then tripoli after the wet sanding?
Thanks a lot everyone.
ps. with the greaseless, I have a quick question (might sound stupid), are you supposed to let it dry on the wheel before using it or can you just roll the wheel into it and apply right away?

[Rasper]

After 1000 grit I would think you would want to go to something even finer than emery. I go to emery after 400 or 600 on stainless. I don't use emery at all on aluminum. Some aluminum seems to like tripoli, and some doesn't. I try that first.

Richard

[Tng21]

think i read on another thread that you have to let the greaseless dry on the wheels first. someone said a hairdryer quickens up the process but then leave it to cool as it can get a bit squidgy when warm.

Im looking into this greaseless stuff at the moment too. Ive got a couple of valve covers and inlet manifolds to polish and wondering what tools are gonna do the sanding more me.

Will be starting y own thread too so not to spam yours

[x1rider]

I polished my car's intercooler (my first attempt at polishing) a few months ago and I used greaseless without letting it dry then went to emery, tripoli, then white. I didn't use wet sanding at all, I just got rid of the cast marks with dry sanding (the cast marks were pretty bad and I had to start at 40). I just want to know if there are better ways of doing this.

I started with this



and ended with this

[alabama_lowlife]

going back to greaseless after wetsanding is back tracking quite a bit. i only sand if the piece is kinda flat and has some uneven places.

the first couple months i was trying polishing, i didn't realize you had to let greaseless dry and it worked....ok. but after i read that i needed to let it dry, i realized how great the stuff is.

[x1rider]

Originally Posted by alabama_lowlife

going back to greaseless after wetsanding is back tracking quite a bit. i only sand if the piece is kinda flat and has some uneven places.

the first couple months i was trying polishing, i didn't realize you had to let greaseless dry and it worked....ok. but after i read that i needed to let it dry, i realized how great the stuff is.

Thanks for the input. So maybe after wet sanding I could go straight to emery and tripoli, right? With the greaseless, do you just roll the wheel into it and let it dry? If so, how long do you need to let it dry?
Thanks in advance.

[jrow]

x1rider,

After using the 320 greaseless I would clean the aluminum and go directly to Emory on a sewn buff. If that doesn't take out the sanding marks try wet sanding with 400 grit wet and dry, then try the Emory, Tripoli and White.
Greaseless is applied to the buff then let dry and then used. TIP: Get more that one buff to apply greaseless with, it will speed up your work.
Sanding: With aluminum I would start with a grit that matches the surface. Looks like you did that with the IC.

Keep us posted.....

John

[x1rider]

Originally Posted by jrow

x1rider,

After using the 320 greaseless I would clean the aluminum and go directly to Emory on a sewn buff. If that doesn't take out the sanding marks try wet sanding with 400 grit wet and dry, then try the Emory, Tripoli and White.
Greaseless is applied to the buff then let dry and then used. TIP: Get more that one buff to apply greaseless with, it will speed up your work.
Sanding: With aluminum I would start with a grit that matches the surface. Looks like you did that with the IC.

Keep us posted.....

John

Thanks a lot!!! I'll try that approach and see what comes out of it. Your help is appreciated.