Aluminum Valve Cover Question

[Tng21]

Actually I've run into a couple of aftermarket ones that weren't too bad - could definitely read the paper in them. But then I don't get out my magnifying glass too often...

What do you use for rough work on valve covers? I had to home-build a 6x48 belt sander with foam drums to keep from getting ripples. It's also a lot faster than a palm sander.

any piturtes of these mate? im always on the lookout for more tools thats gonna help and like to see what people use.

Can we all post up pics of what exactly we use, more tools the bette i say

[UncleJimmi]

I have always preferred to use a pneumatic 6" DA sander that locks the pad in a grinder like mode. switch the lock and re-sand with the same grit, that will remove the ledge created from switching directions (end of stroke) in the grinder mode.
When sanding with the pad locked you should see long curved lines and the pad should be almost flat to flat surfaces. The long sweeping lines make it easy to see the imperfections in the metal. When you unlock the pad you see lines that look the same as from a palm sander, these little overlapping circles hide imperfections like pits and other sanding lines.
I call the grinder mode DQ (Do it Quick) and DA stands for dual action.
I always use a belt grease to prevent galling of the metal, a little on the pad, and or, a little on the part. the heavier the grit the more the grease.
I usually use 120 DQ then DA, 220 DQ / DA, and 320 just DA, then buff.

WARNING{ deep ruts / heavy waves can be created quickly when grinding.
Since you can't put the pad completely flat, you should move in the direction of the lean / tilt. Use a practice piece.

[mpierich]

I have always preferred to use a pneumatic 6" DA sander that locks the pad in a grinder like mode.

Only problems with my belt are 1) it works so fast that I sometimes overestimate how much I've done and have to go back a step...and 2) not much chance to go crosswise with a flange along the bottom of the valve cover, so picking out the previous scratches is tough. The foam does make it nice for curved surfaces too, very forgiving.

But I do think I now know why I couldn't find a factory-made foam-roller belt sander...it's a b*tch getting a belt to track right with "flubbery drums". Sounds like a horrible disease, don't it...?

[mpierich]

any piturtes of these mate? im always on the lookout for more tools thats gonna help and like to see what people use.

Can we all post up pics of what exactly we use, more tools the bette i say

I'll try to remember to get a pic - it's not much to look at...

[ptim]

Here are a few pics of my valve covers.

[ptim]

Pics of the pits.

Should I continue working on them, or is it a lost cause. I'm thinking about Powder Coating them White, to match my Oxford White Mach 1.

[UncleJimmi]

Pics of the pits.

Should I continue working on them, or is it a lost cause. I'm thinking about Powder Coating them White, to match my Oxford White Mach 1.

With all my years of experience (over 20) and owning my own shop for over 10 years,
I could not make it much brighter. You have come very close to the limit of that material.
I have seen and polished that type of Swiss,,, I mean casting and it is hard to maintain too.
On the flip side only “other” polishers will pick that shine apart once you have installed it. If you keep it clean and cream polish it often, it will still look great under the hood.

[mpierich]

Pics of the pits.

Should I continue working on them, or is it a lost cause. I'm thinking about Powder Coating them White, to match my Oxford White Mach 1.

Holy cr@p, that's the worst case of the pits I've ever seen! You're done polishing, that's for sure.

There may be some kind of hi-temp filler you could use before powdercoating, but if the outgassing continued it prolly wouldn't work.

It's my understanding that these could be filled with a (few?) layers of copper, ground smooth, then plated, if that's the route you wanted to go.

[ptim]

Holy cr@p, that's the worst case of the pits I've ever seen! You're done polishing, that's for sure.

There may be some kind of hi-temp filler you could use before powdercoating, but if the outgassing continued it prolly wouldn't work.

It's my understanding that these could be filled with a (few?) layers of copper, ground smooth, then plated, if that's the route you wanted to go.

Not exactly what I wanted to hear, I guess this is the best they will get. Kind of gives me a bad taste on my first polishing job. They will get Powder Coated. Any powder coating experts out there, that could give me some advice on how this will look.

[mpierich]

Not exactly what I wanted to hear, I guess this is the best they will get. Kind of gives me a bad taste on my first polishing job. They will get Powder Coated. Any powder coating experts out there, that could give me some advice on how this will look.

There's a powder coating forum in here too...(and don't discount the plating thing, it could be cheaper than you think...check the plating forum - also there's a "services needed" forum).