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Hello everyone, I am kind of a noob on here. I have done a lot of reading and been through a lot of articles but this is the VERY FIRST thing I am going to try and do.
This is a Shelby LeMans Style Fuel Door. It is a replica I believe and is made of Aluminum and used to be Polished. My question is how would you guys go about saving this? I will be doing pictures step by step so hopefully what I learn can help someone else. I do have a variety of sand paper, an air orbital sander, a electric buffer, a cheaper electric drill and a few wheels and compounds I have purchased from Caswell and gathered over time. I have never done this before and was wondering if you guys could let me know what you guys would do kind of step by step wise. Like should I start sanding and if so how course? Basically any tips would be GREAT and MUCH appreciated! Here are some pics so you guys can see what I am starting with. I have no idea how I am going to get in the little areas around the hinges and really just not sure how to start. ![]()
Last edited by SilverFocusZX3; 07-09-2007 at 07:33 PM. |
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Well here is an update so you guys can see how bad it is.
This was done relatively fast as a friends house to see what the actual metal's surface is like. I took the top part of the fuel door and wetsanded with 2000 grit for about 10 minutes trying to get most of the surface. Then I just rubbed the peice down with Meguiars All Metal Polish (only thing my friend had and didnt want to drive an hour home to get the buffer or any compounds as I havent used them yet) As you can see it brings up a shiny that is decent. The Question is should I sand it all but start with something like 400 since it is already pretty smooth just has a few small tiny pits or should I go with something finer and go over it all then hit it with the black, brown, and white compounds? Also what are you guys using for the hard to get to tight areas something like a dremel perhaps? ![]()
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SilverFocusZX3,
Can I save this Shelby LeMans Fuel Door? Yes you can! First off if your mechanical inclined, and have the equipment I would disassemble the whole thing. Make sure that you can get the tubular rivets to put it back together. I would suggest an automotive machine shop to remove the rivets. The one I just did had brass tubular rivets in it. I would consider putting brass back in as they won't rust! There is a spring in the thumb release, so be careful that you don't loose that. After disassembly I would have it bead blasted to save yourself some time. Next I would use a 320 grit flap wheel OR some 320 grit greaseless on a 4" sewn buff as these will contour to the surface much easier. I think you are going to find that your worst enemy is the dirt in the aluminum. These caps are cast so you will also run into some pitting! You may need to go back to 120 or 180 flap wheels and a courser grit greaseless compound. Go easy with your cleaning as the more surface aluminum that you remove the more likely you are to expose 'pits'. Start your polishing with Emory compound and work your way up to white. Use a 4" sewn buff its easier to control, unless your have a bench buffer, then by all means use that. Let us know how you make out! John |
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