120 or 240 Greaseless will strip the chrome much more quickly than emery, with its approximate 600grit equivelent. However, you must follow up with progressive grit compounds to get the finish smooth again.
I'm trying to strip chrome, nickel and copper of a cast aluminum part with a sisal wheel and greaseless compound #80. The process is very slow going. When I do finally get to the copper/aluminum layer the surface is uneven. Alot of heat is generated in the part. Overall I'm not happy with the progress.
I've tried sandblasting, but it is very slow too with my sandblaster. I can't strip chemically because it will attack the zinc in the part. Any suggestions?
Vitals
new 8x1/2 sisal wheels, raked to eliminate loose pieces.
1 HP bench grinder
120 or 240 Greaseless will strip the chrome much more quickly than emery, with its approximate 600grit equivelent. However, you must follow up with progressive grit compounds to get the finish smooth again.
Not using emery. I started with 80 grit greaseless compound. I think you misunderstood my post.
Maybe you are not using the greasless properly because 80 grit is more than enaugh to remove chrome plating. You have to built a head of greasless on your 1/4" spiral. let it dry for at lease an hour. The best way to work is to use 4 wheel mounted on 2 two sided bench grinders. When the head is starting to where off put some greasless on it and go work on anothere wheel. That way you never stop and always working with dry greasless. Always remember not to where out completely the head of greasless because it's not going to have enough time to dry.
hope this will help
Thanks for your reply. You might be on to something. After I apply the greaseless to the wheel I only waited about 30 seconds. When I stop the wheel, I see that the wheel is covered with compound and red all over the face. It certainly feels dry to the touch, but maybe its not. I thought I read from the manufacturer that it can be used immediately![]()
Yes, sorry I did misread your post, I was tired this morning. I agree with internet, but you shouldn't have to let it dry for an entire hour. 15 minutes would be good, depending on atmospheric conditions.
What a difference 20 minutes makes. My problem was not letting the greasless compound dry on the wheel. Thanks guys!
As a chemist, better living through chemistry!
You need to remove plating with chemistry. Caswell sells chemical strippers, use them.
1. Chrome- 30 % Murtaic acid.
2. Nickel- Caswell nickel stripper.
3. Copper-Caswell copper stripper.
Trying to remove plating with buffs can damage and deform aluminum.
Now removing plating from aluminum with chemical strippers, yes you can with the right chemicals. These chemicals are formulated with buffers to protect base materials. Inaddition, after you remove plating, you need to polish good, then add a good layer of copper, repolish again, add other layer of copper. Aluminum is not a very forgiving material. I known, I have over 25 years of plating experince plating all tyoes of base material.
Good Luck,
Nol4254
I'm trying to strip chrome, nickel and copper of a cast aluminum part with a sisal wheel and greaseless compound #80. The process is very slow going. When I do finally get to the copper/aluminum layer the surface is uneven. Alot of heat is generated in the part. Overall I'm not happy with the progress.
I've tried sandblasting, but it is very slow too with my sandblaster. I can't strip chemically because it will attack the zinc in the part. Any suggestions?
Vitals
new 8x1/2 sisal wheels, raked to eliminate loose pieces.
1 HP bench grinder
Try something other then a sisal, like a spiral. All the sisal does is trow the greaseless at the wall. The spiral will build up the greaseless better.
inevr try to remove chrome by blasting or sanding on aluminium parts .
in my opinion it is a complete waste of time , waste of material , and like NOL4154 says it will deform and damage aluminium
any chrome parts that needs to be stripped i let the plating shops take care of it![]()
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