looking to expand my polishing tools??????

[89notchback]

well my bench grinder is giving out on me and Im planing on buying a good buffer.......would like to pick up a hanging shaft driven polisher/grinder for the hard to reach stuff......dont want to spend a ton but I found this
..............
INCLUDES VARIABLE SPEED FOOT CONTROL
Tackle detail work in wood, metal, and plastics. This heavy duty tool grinds, deburrs drills, polishes, buffs and sands. Motor hanger lets you mount it on any vertical surface. Ball bearing motor. Includes: 1/4 HP motor, 38'' flexible shaft, handpiece, 4 MM (5/32'') key-type chuck, variable speed foot control for hands-free operation. Double insulated. UL listed.
Motor: 1/4 HP, 1 phase, 60 Hz, 115V
Speed: 15,000 RPM
Shipping weight: 5-3/4 lbs

would this work with say 4inch wheels mabye a 6"
also I have a question about the parts Ive done...... I have a couple wheels that have something in them that causes scratches.....have raked them and still theres something in them....Can I wash these in something and how do I dry them so they dont mat down.....also do you clean each part with a wax and grease remover before the next step.....Ive tried both and it seems to work out better without cleaning between.......but I'm getting mixed compounds on the buffs....your thoughts

[junkorgem]

Is this a Foredom type flex tool? I think the variable speed would be handy, but I can't see you doing alot of serious buffing with that. It takes a good amout of torque to cut with emery or tripoli. In my limited experience. It might work with a shaped buff and white compound on aluminum an such. If your budget is limited (like mine) you can buy an inexpensive electric drill, 2500 rpms or more and use a 1/4" bit extention with a small piece of tubing around it.
I also would like to hear what people have to say about cleaning buffs, how it is done.

[baz]

a picture would have been nice but if it i what i think with a 4 mm chuck then its just about good for cartridge rolls and other small abrasives , putting a 4 inch wheel on this will twist the cable as soon as you put pressure on it .
i never clean buffs. i rake them only

[89notchback]

Originally Posted by baz

a picture would have been nice but if it i what i think with a 4 mm chuck then its just about good for cartridge rolls and other small abrasives , putting a 4 inch wheel on this will twist the cable as soon as you put pressure on it .
i never clean buffs. i rake them only

Thanks I guess Ill grab a better drill and try it with a drill.....I need something a little bit more mobile than the bench buffer

[mpierich]

Originally Posted by 89notchback

Thanks I guess Ill grab a better drill and try it with a drill.....I need something a little bit more mobile than the bench buffer

Baz is right again, that shaft will twist up on you with a 4" wheel on it, but it would be good for detailing. An industrial strength shaft like Caswell sells is great on a 1/3 hp motor.

A lot of use like this tends to burn up electric drills, especially light ones that I'd want to use for very long. If you have a decent compressor, an air drill is lighter and will last a lot longer.

[junkorgem]

Hello again, I found a simple formula that may be helpful in your tool selection. It has to do with the relationship between torque and rated hp and rpm. I thought it was interesting, but then again it might be useless?
There is quite a big difference between a 1/3 hp motor operating at 15,000 rpm versus a 1/3 hp motor at 3600 rpm. You would have to agree. Just for an example, you cordless drill with hi and low gear, when you need to drive that big lag screw you put it in low, cause you need the torque. Although that is accomplished with gearing it is the same principle.
Here is the formula that I found. HP=TxN/C. T is the torque, N is the rpm, C is the constant (5252). Tranposed formula T= HPxC/N. This formula will show you that the lower rpm motor has almost 5 times the torque.
I have previously seen a post on this website that tells you what fpm is required for different compounds, with another formula for that. That would give you your target rpms with a given buff diameter, I think.
Has anyone tried a rheostat type control on an electric drill or die grinder? Probably just burn the motor up quick?

[baz]

Originally Posted by junkorgem

Hello again, I found a simple formula that may be helpful in your tool selection. It has to do with the relationship between torque and rated hp and rpm. I thought it was interesting, but then again it might be useless?
There is quite a big difference between a 1/3 hp motor operating at 15,000 rpm versus a 1/3 hp motor at 3600 rpm. You would have to agree. Just for an example, you cordless drill with hi and low gear, when you need to drive that big lag screw you put it in low, cause you need the torque. Although that is accomplished with gearing it is the same principle.
Here is the formula that I found. HP=TxN/C. T is the torque, N is the rpm, C is the constant (5252). Tranposed formula T= HPxC/N. This formula will show you that the lower rpm motor has almost 5 times the torque.
I have previously seen a post on this website that tells you what fpm is required for different compounds, with another formula for that. That would give you your target rpms with a given buff diameter, I think.
Has anyone tried a rheostat type control on an electric drill or die grinder? Probably just burn the motor up quick?

adding a rheostat would slow down the drill but it would not give it more torque and yes you would probably kill the drill on the long run

[jrow]

89notchback,

First off as far as equipment goes, I would buy the correct equipment fit the job your going to do! If you're going to polish a valve cover that doesn't have all the nooks and crannies in it then a bench mounted buff would be best. If you're going to polish an intake manifold that has all the nooks and crannies in it then then a die grinder would probably be best.
What I've done is, I bought an 8" bench mounted buffer, 3600 rpm, and use 10" wheels on it. I also use a 3/8" drill motor, 2500 RPM's with anything up to 4" buffs on it. I also have an electric die grinder that I have attached a router speed control to that I use smaller buffs and cartridge rolls with, and I have a Dremel that I use for really small areas.
I prefer to use chucks without keys as I don't want to tape them every time I change bits.
So as Baz has stated before look at what you are going to do, make a plan and go for it.
I'd start with a 3/8" drill motor and go from there. It will get you started and if done properly it will give you good results!
If your buffs are scratching get new ones. You can wash them but thats not saying that you will get out what is scratching your metal. I use Acetone to clean between compound changes.
John

[samtgallagher]

for the original poster, the variable speed things are for small wheels only. don't waste your money. i went through the same thing you are now, 2 months ago. after i wasted $50, it ended up with me ordering a dayton 1/3hp motor with one of those industrial flexshafts.

that other **** was 100% useless, granted this flexshaft and motor cost me a bit under $400, it does what you need it to. those little puney things are good for dremel type work, but not heavy duty buffing