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hey sswee it that to say that muratic is good for derusting all steel. if so at what concentration? i am doing an old gas pump and the frame work is rusty and i dont feel like taking all the time it will need to blast it from rust to clean. if i can derust it first it will speed the job up.
artmusic247 sorry i am not meaning to highjack your thread but i have heard of this before and was curious. also when you are done you should reseal the tank with http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm or kreem gastank sealer.
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when in doubt polish it out/ why replace it when you can refinish it G2 Polishing and Powdercoating |
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I have only used it on fuel tanks but I don't see why it wouldn't work. I'll have to check the jug to see what concentration it is. I use it straight from the jug. I buy it at a local farm supply, but I've seen it other places in a white one gal. jug. SS
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Thanks for the advice. You people here are very polite, pickleboy.
sswee, you said you bought muriatic acid at a farm supply store, what are farmers using muriatic acid for? Are there other places where they would sell it? Thanks, Dean. Last edited by artmusic247; 10-21-2005 at 09:49 AM. |
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Guys:
Muriatic acid does dissolve rust. It ALSO dissolves steel! While it dissolves rust hundreds (?) of times faster that steel, you have to monitor it closely so it doesn't eat to much raw steel. I blew it once. Had some small surface-rusted #4 & #6 nuts, bolts & washers, so I tossed them into @ 20% solution, then proceeded to forget about them for more than 2 days. The washers had disappeared entirely, and the nuts and bolts were unrecognizeable! Muriatic acid is just dilute Hydrochloric acid. I don't know what the ratio is off hand, but it's still fairly strong. The plating manual recommends 2 or 3 different "pickle" concentrations for removing light rust/medium rust, etc. I use a 5% concentration as a final pickle just before plating a part. That way I KNOW it's rust-free. It's available in normal hardware stores, and is fairly cheap. Sean |
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That was the part where I said, you have to be careful. Maybe I should have clarified. Any chemical should be monitored carefully when in use. I have left hanging wires in anodize stripper to clean for reuse, gotten side tracked and come back to nothing but little pointed pieces no good for anything. The muriatic acid needs to be applied, left usually for only 2 to 5 minutes, rinsed well and checked. It is like working with alot of other substrates, better to go a little at a time than to go too far. SS
Most hardware stores, masonry supplies carry muriatic acid. Last edited by sswee; 10-21-2005 at 12:03 PM. |
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To remove Chrome and Rust
first you will need a tank large enough to hold the part a piece of stainless steel size depends on the part you are de plating a power source battery charger will work there are different type of Acid Pickles they are explained in greater detail on pages 34 35 and 36 of the Caswells Plating Manual WARNING ! Never pour water into Acid always pour acid into water Pickle 1 used for mild etching before plating to make this solution 20 parts fresh water to 1 part muriatic Acid for etching soak part for 1 to 15 minn 1 hour will remove rust from most steel Pickle 2 also rust remover and de- plater to make 2 parts fresh water 1 part muriatic acid to remove Chrome hook you positive lead to you part and your negative lead to the stainless adjust your power to 1 amp per sq inch de-plating should be complete in approx 15 to 20 minn DO NOT use this method on Pot metals or aluminum !!!!
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Jim Eaton Last edited by jimcarry; 10-21-2005 at 12:30 PM. |
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I wish you folks would of told me that it desolves metal before I used it, I thought that someone stole my gas tank! Just kidding. I'm going to be looking around for muriatic acid this weekend. What kind of skin protection should I be using when working with muriatic acid?
Thanks again for the help, Dean. |
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