DIY hot wash tank

[dfarning]

Just thought I would update my filter results.

Currently I am running a 5u and a 1u filters which are driven by the built in pump (50gph).
They have been in use about 5 days. The pump has been running about 8 hours per day.
The cleaner is getting quite dark but still feels very soapy and cleans well. I need to figure out how to determine total dissolved solids. Feels soapy is not very accurate.
I took the filters out and dried them in an oven. The 5u filter gained just over 1/4 pounds and the 1u filter gained just under 1/2 pounds.

The .5u filter lasted less then 8 hours before the flow had dropped to less then 25% of the original flow. I guess that was 12 bucks wasted.

David

[pickleboy]

when using micronic filters the best indicator is flow rate. it will tell you when you are loosing filtration due to the filters being blocked. the other option is if you are real crafty you could install gauges on the inlet and outlet of the filter housing and then compare the inlet to the outlet pressure and this is the differential of the filter. you would need to measure a new filter to get a base line reading then work from there with somewhere around 15-20 psi difference being the max before filter change.

[jrow]

David,

Have you thought about using an automotive oil filter on your setup?

John

[dfarning]

Pickleboy,
To do flow rate comparisons, I have just been measuring the amount of time it take for my rinse nozzle to fill a quart jar Do you have any ideas about what sort of flow rate reductions I should be changing filters?

Weighting the dried filters was more of a way to see which size filters were pulling stuff from my tank.

John,
I looked at auto filters but I thought they might be harder to plumb than a standard 10 inch cartridge filter housing. I am curious if the plastic filter housing and o-ring will hold hold up to the cleaner.

David

[pickleboy]

Originally Posted by dfarning

Pickleboy,
To do flow rate comparisons, I have just been measuring the amount of time it take for my rinse nozzle to fill a quart jar Do you have any ideas about what sort of flow rate reductions I should be changing filters?

in my day job i am in the aviation fuel industry. we use differential pressure as the measure of filter life but also if there is a noticable flow rate drop at a given time it means that the filter is getting plugged up. lets say that you can fill the jar on a new filter in 15 seconds. when you drop to around 60 seconds it is getting time to change the filter. at that time and maybe before the filter has given its best filtration and will start to degrade the filter media. if you use auto filters (spin on) most any auto parts store can get you a remote filter relocating kit. this will bolt on to the wash tank and will be pipe thread in and out. then use the appropriate spin on for the thread on the adapter. if you do go this route keep in mind that most engine oil filters have a bypass function that if they get plugged they will bypass so as not to starve the engine of oil.

[dekebell]

Wow! I have been looking for a cleaning system and ideas and here it is! I am very interested in the HF system you guys are referring too. Please send me pictures and information- I would be greatly appreciative. Thanks in advance.

dekebell@houston.rr.com
Deke

[sheffd]

In my day job as a licensed water treatment specialist, the filter set-ups sound great. With the 'String wound gradient density' filters you need to be aware that there is what is called dumping. Because of the porous nature of the filter, when it gets full it will dump to your second filter causing it to clog faster. My suggestion would be to change your 5 micron a little more frequently than your your 1 micron or even your .5. Since you don't have gauges to look at the pressure gradient from inflow to outflow you would definately need to pay attention to output flow at your cleaning nozzle. Also, keep in mind that the sprial wound filter is usually only good up to about 150 degrees. Beyond that, it starts to melt.

[dfarning]

Hey dekebell glad we could help,
A link to the tank can be found at http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=7340
Menards sells them under the brand name TOOL SHOP.

A couple of helpful modifacations are:

Adding 2 inches of pink insulation foam (R value of 11)to the outside of the tank.
Glueing 2 windshield wipers to the bottom inside of the cover near the hinge prevents condensation from running down the back of the tank.
I just attach the incoming line of the filter system to the nozzle of the sprayer with a hoseclamp with which I replaced the screw with a thumb screw.

As for performance it heats up from 70 to 140 in about 40 minutes. when the lid is closed the heat element run between 5 an 10 minutes per hour. When the lid is open the element runs between 10 and 20 minutes per hour.

Dave

[asallwey]

Originally Posted by jrow

David,

Have you thought about using an automotive oil filter on your setup?

John

David,

I liked your work on this project. Filtration is the remaining project I have to undertake on my parts washer.

The 2/03 Auto Restorer magazine had an article where the fellow recommended a tractor fuel filter from Tractor Supply that has 2 internal mesh screens that can be cleaned TSC # 3350-0059A (bar code # 3494? 00335), Poly Line Strainer, Screen 90/20, NPT of 1”

then a reader recommended (6/03) using a hydraulic fluid filter - no word if anyone tried one.

The original writer tried an oil filter and found it was too good and cut his flow when it got dirty, which didn't take long.

The best approach is to use 2 baths, one for dirty parts and one for parts cleaned in the "dirty" bath. Filtering would help with both. I don't have room for 2 baths though.

Alex
See the parts washer page on my site,
http://mysite.verizon.net/cathyandalex/
When you