Black Oxide Process

[cybor462]

Hi Just got the BO kit and it seems to work great. Just wondering if the shedding of the black is a good thing or not. After sealing and letting it dry overnight each time you touch it your hands are black. I tried wiping the part down to see if the black will stop but it seems to keep leaving marks on your hands.
I make flash suppressors and hope to use this process on them. This is a trial and need to know will this shedding stop and if not am I doing something wrong.
Degreased the part before soaking and also wire brushed as I like the rough look. Soaked it in the solution for 10 minutes, rinsed well and then soaked it in the sealer 10 minutes. Hung it to dry overnight. Color looks uniform but if it keeps coming off will it become uneven?
I noticed in another thread this same question was asked but never answered.

Thanks

[fxstcguy98]

there are two different processes for black oxide. Cold, which is what you are doing and a hot process. The cold process will come off on your hands. The Hot process doesn't, but it involves some really nasty chemicals at very high temperatures making it a process that you can't do at home because of the hazardous vapors. Goggle it and do some research if your really interested in the difference.

[cybor462]

Thanks for the info. I read about the hot. I just was curious how long this cold process will last. If it keeps coming off that means it will become uneven and look worn, am I correct? Just want to decide it this process will work well enough for my intended purpose.

What do you think?

Thanks
Jim

[ntsbpitt]

Jim. I've heard that a predip in Caswell pre black solution followed by a standard Manganese Parkerizing treatment yields a very dark, rust resistant and durable finish. I have done both Zinc and Manganese Parkerizing before but have not used the pre-black solution. I am hoping that the color matches the AK black oxide finish more closely.

It might be worth a try.

[cmcminn]

I have experimented a little with the BO kit on carbon steel putter (golf) heads and encountered the same problem you have with the cold process. What I found that works is to use hot water (app 120*F) when mixing the blacking solution. I then preheat the putter head to app 200*F using a heat gun (paint stripper) and then quench it in the blacking solution. 5-10 seconds gives a dark black uniform finish on a putter head. I then use the heat gun to dry the part (never wiping) and then quench again in the sealer (room temp) using the heat gun to again dry the part . Sit aside until it is cool to the touch. I then wipe any residue off and after the initial wipe it will usually wipe clean from that point on.
Some other observations - the black oxide has a terrible odor that never seems to go away and also my putter heads will eventually begin to oxidize(rust) meaning I have to repeat the process every few months.

[asallwey]

Hmmm, I'll have to go test some of the bolts I've done, but I don't recall much black coming off. But then I haven't handled them much.

I've been using the blackening kits for ferous & ss to good effect. I'm using the small quantity kits, which means the blackening & sealer containers are kind of small. I have been blackening bolts, nuts, washers and a couple of small tools. When doing small parts, I have found that it is MUCH EASIER to put the little beggars in a plastic mesh sack.

There are 2 major benefits to this. First, it keeps the parts for a given item all together, and 2nd, I don't have to reach in to find washers, etc. The sacks I use came into my household holding veggies or fruit, and I have accumalated about 1/2 dozen. I will run a batch of parts with a sack, empty the parts into a drying tray, then wash and hang the sack to dry for future use.

Hope this helps someone.

Alex