rust removal VIA electrolysis - hope this is right place?

[timbn2]

Sorry if not, this is my first post on here.
I have a 25amp rectifier similar to the one sold by caswell. im just curious about how many amps i should use for de-rusting small parts in a 5 gal bucket?

thanks...
tim

[XK120DHC]

Originally Posted by timbn2

Sorry if not, this is my first post on here.
I have a 25amp rectifier similar to the one sold by caswell. im just curious about how many amps i should use for de-rusting small parts in a 5 gal bucket?
thanks... tim

Tim;
Without trying to sound "flip", I guess the amount of amps you need would depend on the size of the part being derusted via electrolysis.. (one article suggested 8-10 amps.. The stripping process can take anywhere from thirty minutes to hours and hours, depending on the size of the parts.. it's a "play-it-by-ear" thing.
The difference in "plating" amps and "de-plating/de-rusting" (electro-stripping) amps is the polarity must be reversed.. My 12V25A power supply has a "Stripping" switch which internally reverses the polarity of the power wires.. saves on having to "think" about changing the wires around (I have enough problem hooking them up correctly, as it is!)
I was interested in doing electrolysis as well and had queried a friend and super knowledgeable Zinc Plater about the "how-to's" of electrolysis and he send me a number of links.. Some of the links are "near copies" of others, all have "bits" of good info, some are "one stop shopping" they are so full of information..
One HUGE caution, tho.. some suggest using Stainless Steel as a derusting anode... not a good idea as it creates a "toxic waste" you have to take to the HazMat bunch to dispose of.. All you need are good ol' lengths of Rebar anyway..
The links are:
<http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp> (I like this one the best)
<http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm> (very technical)
<http://users.moscow.com/oiseming/rustdemo/rustdemo.htm> (another good article.. it's more "step-by-step" but the steps are explained "in-depth")
<http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html> (has caution info on using Stainless Anodes)
<http://www.grandamregistry.com/new/electrolysis.cfm> (good "how-to" with a "materials list" and in-depth info)
<http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm>
<http://www.chip.com/buick/techtips/rustremoval.html>

One last suggestion, instead of a two gallon bucket, go to Wally-World and get a deep Plastic "tub" of a suitable size that will handle the largest piece you plan on striping.. plus you need room to hang a lot of pieces of ReBar, especially in "corners" of items.. Just look for the "plastics" triangle on the bottom of the tub that says "HDPE".. High Density PolyEthelyne.. This plastic is the same stuff our plating buckets are made from and will handle any acids, etc. you can throw at it..
Hope this helps.

[timbn2]

Charles,

thank you for the in-depth reply.
On one point... where all the articles talk about using a battery charger as the power source with the negative lead on the part to be cleaned...you are saying that as far as reversing polarity with my rectifier, i should do the opposite and connect the positive lead to the part to be cleaned? is this correct?

thanks
Tim

[XK120DHC]

Originally Posted by timbn2

Charles,

thank you for the in-depth reply.
On one point... where all the articles talk about using a battery charger as the power source with the negative lead on the part to be cleaned...you are saying that as far as reversing polarity with my rectifier, i should do the opposite and connect the positive lead to the part to be cleaned? is this correct?
thanks
Tim

Tim;
You are quite welcome.. Hope I helped..
I probably shouldn't have included the "polarity" comment in the post.. It was intended to (1) mention the "reversing" switch that's on my Plating Power Supply that (2) is used for electro-stripping (which I understand uses an electroplating bath).. totally different than electrolysis. Plus, after re-reading what I wrote, it is totally confusing (hey, it was 3AM!!)... bad case of trying to stick in some additional, non-related info and totally screwing up.. Follow the instructions laid-out in the links I sent you..
Sorry for the confusion.
With respect to using a Battery Charger (or an Arc Welder), I've read that people have used these tools with success, given the general "lack of fininte" amperage control, I'd stick with the plating rectifier, assuming the part doesn't exceed the ampeage limits of the rectifier..