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I would say it depends on exactly what you're trying to de-chrome.
If it's a small part and time isn't a factor, I'd say drop it in some Muratic acid. If it's a big part, you could use acid or a base solution to electrically strip it. This technique is also MUCH faster. If it's an odd shaped part, or you only want to strip a specific section of it, then you could use a brush -plate system. Something that's easy for one part, can be overkill for another. Can you give us a little more info on the item you're working with? |
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well hey, thanks for posting and for the help. |
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Article(s): Chrome on Plastic Automotive Tail Light Bezels -- each about 12"L X 3"W X 2"D w/Beveled Sides.
A Professional Plating Company has given a quote of $220.00 per set of two (there being two sets!)! |
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Anything you're going to powder coat can just be sanded. In fact, as long as the old chrome isn't peeling, I don't see why you even need to remove it. If it is peeling, just sand it down to a uniform smoothness and the powder coat will cover it. Remember, unlike plating, powdercoating does not rely on the finish of the item for polish or gloss.
Muriatic acid is Hydrochloric Acid (HCI), you can get it at pool supply stores or large hardware stores and costs less than $5 bucks a gallon. It's commonly used to lower the Ph in swimming pools or as a concrete driveway cleaner. As long as you respect it and follow safety guidelines, using it shouldn't be a problem. Wear goggles and gloves, use in ventalated area, don't breath fumes, NEVER mix with other cleaning chemicals and if diluting with water, it's ALWAYS acid into the water, NEVER water into the acid (dumping water into acid intantly creates a heat reaction in the water that can cause it to boil or vaporise, splashing hot acid everywhere). Sandblasting/bead blasting the chrome off would be the way I would do it, if I had access to such a system. It's fast and direct with minimal clean up. Quote:
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If the original part is chromed plastic, and under the peeling chrome is a dull, painted plastic, then you can't just re-chrome it without puting a new conductive finish on the item. I would sand the items down to the plastic with a very fine sandpaper (around #400), then paint it with a couple of coats of conductive spray paint (caswell sells some). Let the final coat dry for 48 hours and then go over it with a #1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper to have the smoothest, most polished finish you can get. Then plate it with the copy krome. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but that's why the guy is charging $220 bucks. |
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