Oven/Coating station cabinet - Power question.

[AnotherDano]

I have a double over/under residential oven and plan to build a cabinet around it. On the side, there will be an extention with storage below and a three-sided coating station above that.

My question is about the best way to route power to the oven, lighting, powder gun and small compressor.

The unit will be wheel mounted. I'd like to minimize the power cords running from the unit.

I'm thinking of using a 220v cord into a small breaker panel and taking 220 and 110 from there to the oven and a couple of outlets for the lighing and other things built into the cabinet.

Any thoughts?

[ed_denu]

It's rather difficult to visulize what you are attempting to do, but using conduit for electrical usually gives you the most flexibility. You can then either mount receptacles or hardwire from a junction box.

[AnotherDano]

I'm just planning a cabinet for the oven with a coating station on the side.
Picture a kitchen with a over/under oven and a standard cabinet alongside, then make the rest of the kitchen disappear. Add 'walls' to the back and side of the cabinet, plus a ceiling, and you see where I'm going.

It needs to be on wheels, so it can be rolled to the 220v outlet without having to be there permanently.

I'm trying to avoid having to plug in several power cords - for the oven, lights, powder gun etc. The goal is to plug the 220 in and feed the rest of the 110 equipment from outlets fed from the 220 through a panel/box.

[CRayGill]

I'm thinking of using a 220v cord into a small breaker panel and taking 220 and 110 from there to the oven and a couple of outlets for the lighing and other things built into the cabinet.

Any thoughts?

New here, but I like your idea- around $60 for a 2-place sub pannel with 1- 240V 50A breaker and 2- 120V 15A breakers in it. Depending upon your amp draws, this system should work and be safe for you; each 120V breaker comes off opposite legs of the 240V cord. Also, it's conveniant, as the breakers on your cart "should" react before the breakers/fuses in your pannel do, so you don't have to go chasing after the house pannel if you should accidently draw too many amps!
I'm assuming 120V compressor on 1 leg, lights and pc gun off the other? The oven light is built into the oven circuit, so I'm assuming (again, I know!) by "lights" you meant for the spray booth area?
You might not be able to run your compressor and the oven at the same time, but if you spray first and bake later, all should be okay.
Let us know what you find out!

C. Ray

[AnotherDano]

Due to space constraints in the shop, I need to keep the oven and coating station separate. They have to be stowed wherever there is room at the time. Not the best layout, I know.

However, since they will be used in conjunction with each other, the wiring can be similar to the original idea. I'm installing a four-prong receptical with the ground wire going straight through the wall and connecting to the grounding rod, bypassing the circuit panel.

So, the mini-panel can be installed at the back of the oven cabinet with the 110 outlets alongside. The coating station can be plugged into them, resulting in fewer extension cords and grounding wires running all over the place. The ground wire could be run to a copper wire from the back of the oven to a big allegator clip that would be clamped to the hanger rod in the PC station.

Your opinion? Would that grounding arrangement be sufficient for optimal operations? Total length of travel from the hanger to the earth-ground rod would be 12 feet max. Wire size - whatever is used by a standard Home Depot/Lowes 4-wire oven cord.

[ed_denu]

Due to space constraints in the shop, I need to keep the oven and coating station separate. They have to be stowed wherever there is room at the time. Not the best layout, I know.

However, since they will be used in conjunction with each other, the wiring can be similar to the original idea. I'm installing a four-prong receptical with the ground wire going straight through the wall and connecting to the grounding rod, bypassing the circuit panel. Why do you want to do this? I am certain this is against electrical code.

So, the mini-panel can be installed at the back of the oven cabinet with the 110 outlets alongside. The coating station can be plugged into them, resulting in fewer extension cords and grounding wires running all over the place. The ground wire could be run to a copper wire from the back of the oven to a big allegator clip that would be clamped to the hanger rod in the PC station.

Your opinion? Would that grounding arrangement be sufficient for optimal operations? Total length of travel from the hanger to the earth-ground rod would be 12 feet max. Wire size - whatever is used by a standard Home Depot/Lowes 4-wire oven cord.The wire size needs to be matched to the breaker you intend to use

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[AnotherDano]

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Thanks for your input.

The CNC mfg recommends that a ground rod be driven into the earth and connected to the machine. The example shows the rod being placed an inch or two from the foot of the leg. Would it not be the same as running a ground wire directly to the building's ground rod? I want to provide the most direct path for a fault to travel, especially for the PC ground that will use the same plug. (Can't do both operations at the same time - nature of the layout).

The circuit would be sized for the oven per it's owner's manual, and a standard pigtail (Home Depot/Lowes) used - rated for the oven specs.

Anything I'm missing?

[ed_denu]

Maybe I misunderstood what you are intending to connect, but you stated: "I'm installing a four-prong receptical with the ground wire going straight through the wall and connecting to the grounding rod, bypassing the circuit panel." If you intend to tie the receptacle ground wire directly to the grounding rod, bypassing the service panel, this will not provide a fault path for the circuit.

Here is an explanation I copied from an article awhile back that explains it better than I can. Here is the text.

"Your water pipes (metal) and ground rods compromise your grounding electrode system (GES) and have absolutely nothing to do with fault currents and causing breakers to trip. They are for property protection from high voltage and amperage events like lightning or a downed high voltage utility line energizing your service drop.

The equipment grounding system (EGS) is the bonded metal and equipment ground wires likely to be energized in the event of a ground fault and are for human safety to protect from electrocution. This path lets fault currents get to the service neutral and then to the transformer center tap over an extremely low impedance path, and therefore allows enough current (amperage) to flow through the breaker to cause it to trip and clear the fault.

System current and fault current seek the source not earth. If earth was the only path to the transformer ( source ) for fault current the resistance would be so high a breaker would not have enough current go through it to trip and all metal in the fault path would come to line voltage."

I think you're wanting to ground the equipment to the grounding rod, which is fine, just run an independent ground cable, don't accomplish it by using the circuit ground.

[AnotherDano]

Thanks Ed. That tells me that there is a lot more to this stuff than I realized. All the work will be done by someone with a master's ticket. I'm just counting the options and trying to avoid having a lot of wires running across the floor.

I appreciate your help.