PID Went Out, replaced with back up, now contactors not cycling. Need help

[wmff82]

Had a oven full of suspension parts, and noticed the PID from (Ted's) was flashing a err/alarm across the display, and noticed the temp had fallen to around 300. Long story short, I replaced the the PID with a back up auberins pid 2362 I purchased, for this very reason.

The back up is a little different, but we got it wired in and all was good...
EXCEPT the contactors will not cycle... I hear them come on when I flip the heater switch on, but again, they wont cycle and it has be frustrated.. Have a ton of stuff to get done.

The control box I have is Ted's. Everything is exactly as sent to me, except for the new PID..
Where is a good place to look first to trouble shoot?

I noticed Teds PID came ready to go. Simply flip on the power, wait until the out light comes on, then flip the heater switch on...
Shouldnt this PID be the same.. I see the out light come on, and it flashes, but the temperature keeps on going.

I did ohm out the contactors and all is good there as well.
Thanks for any help!

[wmff82]

Ok, I think I found the problem... not sure until i go back to the shop.. I believe Im using the J1 output to control the PID which the schematic shows not to use.. It shows to use J2..

[wmff82]

Ok... I just got back in from the shop and I had no luck...

Here is the diagram to my PID.. Can someone please siffer this an dlet me know how it should wire up.

teds control box which consist of a thermal block, 2 contactors, power switch, heater switch, fan switch and light switch. the light and fan, im not worried about.. Need to know how the heaters, power, contactors, are wire in with this pid..

Thanks guys.. Im kinda in a panic, as I have work that needs finished tomorrow!

if anyone can help, id greatly appreciate it!

[ed_denu]

You need to use the J2 contacts, specifically 13 and 14. One of these terminals gets a hot feed from the source, the other goes to the contactor. Normally the common #13 gets the source feed.

Then you need to change the 'outy' parameter to '4'. This tells the pid to use the J2 contacts as a relay output control.

Should be good to go, but you might want to unload the oven and run an autotuning function first.

[wmff82]

You need to use the J2 contacts, specifically 13 and 14. One of these terminals gets a hot feed from the source, the other goes to the contactor. Normally the common #13 gets the source feed.

Then you need to change the 'outy' parameter to '4'. This tells the pid to use the J2 contacts as a relay output control.

Should be good to go, but you might want to unload the oven and run an autotuning function first.

Thanks Ed

I've already jacked up the parameters, so im going to set everything back up to factory settings, then run the AT.

The 'outy' I was having a little trouble with trying to figure out which was the best route to take, ive tried 1,2 but not 4.
Thanks, It was a long night up there, and Im getting ready to head back. If you dont mind, email me or PM me your email address just in case.

thank you ed!

[ed_denu]

In looking at the manual again, it's not real clear the difference between outy setting 1 and 4. It kind of looks like 1 should have worked.

Are you sure the pid is the problem, and not one of the elements, or contactor. I would do some voltage checks when you get it together again to narrow down the problem.

[wmff82]

we have the voltages, and ohmed everything out.

It's in the PID for sure, as before i replaced it, the elements wouldnt come on at all.

Oh... and when you say source feed... what exactly are you reffering to?

[wmff82]

the elements come on... they just wont shut off.

when doing a auto tune, once its finished, the al2 cycles on and off rapidly, turning the heating elements on and off.. I just dont have something wired in right from the PID

[wmff82]

Ed, That was it!!! Had to change up the source feed wire, and set the outy to 4!

Your the man!!!
Thank you so much!! Back to work I go!

Scebo King
King's Custom Coatings
King's Custom Coatings