contactor wiring - Plating Powder Coating Buffing Anodizing

chromeitout · #1 (**permalink**) 01-19-2007, 11:40 AM

I have my contactor(s) and controller and found these two schematics on the site. They look about the same except for the A1/A2 terminals on the contactor. One uses power from L2 for A2 and the other uses the neutral. Could someone explain which one is what I need?

Wiring Oven
My oven SCHEMATIC...for new oven builders..

chromeitout · #2 (**permalink**) 01-19-2007, 05:53 PM

Never mind, I threw a few sparks and figured it out.

TurboRoadster · #3 (**permalink**) 01-19-2007, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chromeitout

Never mind, I threw a few sparks and figured it out.

well, so , what is the correct way to wire it up?

chromeitout · #4 (**permalink**) 01-20-2007, 01:43 AM

I used this diagram. Wiring Oven

This is the contactor http://www.famousparts.com/c25bnf240aco.html
This is the controller http://cgi.ebay.com/Celsius-999C-Dig...QQcmdZViewItem This is the Fahrenheit one if you prefer http://cgi.ebay.com/Fahrenheit-999-D...QQcmdZViewItem
On the left is the contactor, the right is the controller. L1 and L2 are the hot legs from your power supply and the A2 is the neutral. T1 and T2 go to the ends of your element. Tie into one of the hot legs, at L1 or L2 (which will be 110v) and run it to an on/off switch to break current. Come out of the switch and run to #3 on the controller (yours may be designed differently but the symbols in the schematic may help you). Tie into the neutral, at A2, and run it to #2. Use a jumper wire from #3 to #4. #5 goes to A1 to supply the 110v back to the coil on the contactor. #9 and #10 are the +/- of the thermocouple. #1 is obviously ground. I haven't wired in an alarm (#6 and#7) but it should work like #4 and #5 requiring a jumper from #3 to #7, and #6 to power on the alarm (you would also need to tie into the neutral at A2 and run to the neutral on the alarm). #8 is unused. I am by no means an electrician and this is actually the first wiring I've ever done with 220v involved. My oven is actually going to run three contactors with a three position switch to control which elements burn when. If I had a paint software I'd draw a schematic of what I've explained, but I don't. Oh well, I hope this lengthy post helps.

vintagespeedwerks · #5 (**permalink**) 01-22-2007, 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chromeitout

If I had a paint software I'd draw a schematic of what I've explained, but I don't.

your post helps some, but pics are worth 1000 words.

ALL PCs have a paint program.

windowz is under start/programs/accessories
something tells me your not on a mac

TurboRoadster · #6 (**permalink**) 01-22-2007, 08:08 PM

great thread indeed! thanks for the help. I am still kinda confused because I bought a 60 amp contactor and everything is labelled but It doesnt "id" A1 or A2.
schematic would be greatly appreciated.

chromeitout · #7 (**permalink**) 01-23-2007, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chromeitout

I used this diagram. Wiring Oven

This is the contactor http://www.famousparts.com/c25bnf240aco.html
This is the controller http://cgi.ebay.com/Celsius-999C-Dig...QQcmdZViewItem This is the Fahrenheit one if you prefer http://cgi.ebay.com/Fahrenheit-999-D...QQcmdZViewItem
On the left is the contactor, the right is the controller. L1 and L2 are the hot legs from your power supply and the A2 is the neutral. T1 and T2 go to the ends of your element. Tie into one of the hot legs, at L1 or L2 (which will be 110v) and run it to an on/off switch to break current. Come out of the switch and run to #3 on the controller (yours may be designed differently but the symbols in the schematic may help you). Tie into the neutral, at A2, and run it to #2. Use a jumper wire from #3 to #4. #5 goes to A1 to supply the 110v back to the coil on the contactor. #9 and #10 are the +/- of the thermocouple. #1 is obviously ground. I haven't wired in an alarm (#6 and#7) but it should work like #4 and #5 requiring a jumper from #3 to #7, and #6 to power on the alarm (you would also need to tie into the neutral at A2 and run to the neutral on the alarm). #8 is unused. I am by no means an electrician and this is actually the first wiring I've ever done with 220v involved. My oven is actually going to run three contactors with a three position switch to control which elements burn when. If I had a paint software I'd draw a schematic of what I've explained, but I don't. Oh well, I hope this lengthy post helps.

I just copied this post so the info would be with this horrible looking schematic. I'd greatly appreciate it if someone would redraw it. As for the A1/ A2, it doesn't matter which side is which.