started building my oven

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worse case, it would be pretty easy to convert to upright. might have to beef up the 'end' that it stands on, but 90% of it would remain intact...basically change the door.

for long, narrow items, i thought the horizontal would be easier. mount the part on the trolley, as opposed to hanging it like a trophy fish

both ways still have their downside. on the trolley, it may be difficult to do the underside as it will be low to the ground. hanging, it may be hard to get the top and/or hang the item if it is a long.

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i just found the sheet metal for the inside of my oven, for free! my uncle, w/ a welding shop, has some he got for nothing, and will cut it to size for me. not sure what gauge it is, but should be at least 26 or 28. maybe not the BEST to use, but for free, it will work!

hopefully i can get it by next weekend and post some pics of the inside skin on.

[fl70]

Can't beat free and cut to size!

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picked up the sheet steel for the inside today. the free stuff was 26ga. looks like a decent thickness for the job. and for free, it's more than i could have asked for.

for anyone looking for prices on material, i had to buy some 20ga and his cost is $35 per 4x8. non-galvanized.

[JTW37]

Just bought some 36' x 120' (3x10) 22 ga. galvanized (but dull) $24.00 each. Should be about right for my 36x36x36 I'm going to build. Want a smaller one the I currently have for small stuff.
JT

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interior sheet installed.

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interior sheet installed.

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the door is kind of big. i probably should have made it in 2 pieces. as it is, i will probably use a large piano style hinge vertically so it swings open. might need a guide wheel on the opposite side for support...like on a large gate.

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got my controller 90% done today. my brother brought over the supplies.

i have 2 controllers. 1 each for a pair of elements. each controller goes to a 40 amp relay. each controller will also have its own thermocouple for more even heat dissipation (i think they are 'J' tc's, but my brother says they use them at work for maintaining similar temps for other purposes). i have a 3 position switch, off, 1 controller active (2 elements), and both controllers active (4 elements). each controller and each relay will be fused. by running half the elements per controller, i am only dealing w/ ~20amps per (half the total to run all the elements)....so i only need the 'fat' wire into the box.

the only thing i have to do is run the real 50amp circuit to it, and then wire each relay to their respective pair of elements. also, i plan to run at least a 120v circuit for a light (and may end up running the controllers off 120v also. they can be run on either 120v or 240v and are currently wired for 240v).

i did, however, hook up one element and temp power to a 120v outlet for testing, and it works great. the element heated up and the controller worked fine.

i will add pics later.

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control box pics.