Can someone take a look at this thermostat?

[JTW37]

Yea, It came with the "K" style.

[fl70]

Originally Posted by JTW37

Yea, It came with the "K" style.

Do you still require a contactor with that or are the setups he sells everthing you need?

[mtumbleson]

You still need a contactor.

[GeneNewcomb]

I ca't get my dang digital to trip my SSR. The voltages seem to be right. Any clues? It reads the temp OK and I program it to 450' and the out 1 light comes on but the SSR I bought from the link on this forum does not trip. Do I need to list everything I have or am I missing something obvious?
Gene

[mtumbleson]

I had the same problem, after looking at my wiring VERY close I found that I ran my jumper wire from the wrong line. (I ran it from L2 instead of L1)

Follow this link and scroll down to post #3 for the wiring of this controller>

Is this wiring correct?

[kcenicola]

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I use the above controller from ColdfusionX. It's smaller, you can set it to display degrees F instead of C, it comes with a thermocouple, you can use it with a 120V or 240V relay or with a DC SSR. It's a great, easy to use unit.

Ken

[CarWiz]

Originally Posted by GeneNewcomb

I ca't get my dang digital to trip my SSR. The voltages seem to be right. Any clues? It reads the temp OK and I program it to 450' and the out 1 light comes on but the SSR I bought from the link on this forum does not trip. Do I need to list everything I have or am I missing something obvious?
Gene

Hey Gene! I'm still workin' them anvils!
If you have the 612, it could be you've reset the Output Type (Outy). The AL1 light indicates your output is going to J1. To trigger the SSR output you need to make sure Outy is set to 2. It might be a good idea to check all the values @ 0089.

Ken Kopsky (CCWKen)

[GeneNewcomb]

Thanks Ken, What you doing around these parts anyway?
I went with a old fashioned contact block. Something I understand. This is the 2nd machine I could not get an SSR to work on. My best guess is that the temp control did not have the sufficient amps to trip the SSR.
I don't see that it would transform the 220V AC into 2-32V DC anyway. You don't need a power supply for that also do you.
The only bad thing about the contact block is that it is tripped by 120V so I have to have a return leg, I used the ground. The boxes in our shop don't have both. I have read a little about that in this forum but I'm still not sure if it is OK for the general consumer. Should I just ground it to actual ground?
My contact block started buzzing pretty bad after an hour or two of testing. Any idea what thats about?
Gene

[CarWiz]

Originally Posted by GeneNewcomb

Thanks Ken, What you doing around these parts anyway?
I went with a old fashioned contact block. Something I understand. This is the 2nd machine I could not get an SSR to work on. My best guess is that the temp control did not have the sufficient amps to trip the SSR.
I don't see that it would transform the 220V AC into 2-32V DC anyway. You don't need a power supply for that also do you.
The only bad thing about the contact block is that it is tripped by 120V so I have to have a return leg, I used the ground. The boxes in our shop don't have both. I have read a little about that in this forum but I'm still not sure if it is OK for the general consumer. Should I just ground it to actual ground?
My contact block started buzzing pretty bad after an hour or two of testing. Any idea what thats about?
Gene

The SSR output is 8vdc/40ma max. That should be enough to trip most SSRs. But, the SSR terminals are disabled unless Output Type (Outy) is set to "2". That's why I thought you might check the parameters.

I'm not sure about using "Ground" as a return leg. Seems pretty dangerous to me. That could charge the frame on a near-by machine or tool. The buzzing contactor sounds like bad power or a bad contactor. Not being able to see the wiring makes it hard to diagnose. If you're driving it off one of heater coil legs, the voltage may be dropping below it's limit. Or simply a loose connection.

I've been peeking in here for years. I dabble in plating and coating too for some customers. I'm finally getting around to upgrading the PC oven with a PID. I've been gathering parts so as soon as I get some time, the oven will get overhauled. I tested my PID and it works great.