Contactor with 220 v coil?

[mtumbleson]

Hey guys, I purchased this contactor, >

http://www.famousparts.com/c25bnf240aco.html

it has a 120v coil. I believe that I need a contactor with a 220v coil. A buddy of mine took a look at my wiring schematic and mentioned that I would need a 220v coil. Of course I dismissed his advice because it was mentioned here that it was the correct one. (My fault, not anyone here)

Today I was firing my oven to operating temperature for the first time and after about 10 minutes of so, I heard a pop in my control box. I shut it down, disconnected the power and opened up the control box. It looks like I blew the coil. (Which is rated at 110v.)

My controller is a 220v model, so I guess I need a contactor with a 220v coil (?) can any one suggest where I might get one, or might I be over looking something?

[chromeitout]

My contactors are 220v with 110 coils. They are fine. The only difference is that you only use one 110 leg to power your coil instead of two.
contactor wiring

[mtumbleson]

Thank you.

[mtumbleson]

I used that diagram and it won't kick on the contactor. (I am using a new contactor, not the one I blew up).

I'm more than confididant that I followed it 100%. Could it be missing a jumper? I looks like it would need a jumper from L1 to A1?

Anyone?

[mtumbleson]

Humm, perhaps it's not a jumper as I suggested above. But how are you getting away with running a Neutral to #2 on the thermastat?

#2 is intended for one of the 220v legs. (?)

[chromeitout]

#2 for my controller is neutral (so that my digital display lights work). The jumper between 3 and 4 just gives available power to 4 so that when the controller closes the 4-5 circuit it will send the 110 to the contactor. There is no need to send a second 110 leg to my controller because it works off of 110 and sends 110. Make sure that your controller sends 110 instead of 220. If it does send 220 then that could be the reason that you popped your 110v coiled contactor, and you'll need one that has a 220v coil.

Edit: Now that I've reread your first post (220 volt controller) this is the case. Sorry if I mislead you.

Edit again: After thinking about it, I don't see why you can't just use one of the 110 outputs from your controller to trigger the contactor. Maybe someone else will chime in. I think Banditperformance knows a bit about electricity.

[autobonifica]

in my oven, i have a 2 wires coming into one leg of the contactor. The wire goes to a switch then directly to the power supply of my controller. from there it is jumpered to the output supply relay(internal in the controller.) that runs directly into the contactor to supply voltage to close the contacts. then the other side goes directly to the ground.

i hope this helps you some...if not...maybe it will someone else

[mtumbleson]

I guess this is the coil I should have purchased >>

http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...r_1943_4761087

[chromeitout]

Probably so. If you have a working one like http://www.famousparts.com/c25bnf240aco.html, I'll buy it from you. I need to add more power to my oven, and it would be nice not to have to wait on famousparts again. Really I need 2 30 amp ones, but this will do.

[mtumbleson]

Originally Posted by chromeitout

Probably so. If you have a working one like http://www.famousparts.com/c25bnf240aco.html, I'll buy it from you. I need to add more power to my oven, and it would be nice not to have to wait on famousparts again. Really I need 2 30 amp ones, but this will do.

PMed you...