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| Oven Building Forum Building A Curing Oven? - Here's the place to post your questions, specs and ideas. |
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I mounted mine about 1/2 the way up the side of my oven.
I ran conduit from my control box to a junction box where the coupler would run through the oven wall. I ran a 1/2" threaded pipe nipple from the junction box to the inside of the oven. I then ran the coupler through the conduit and nipple and siliconed the coupler in the center of the pipe, being careful not to get any on the end. After the silicone dried I put a pipe cap on the end of the nipple on the coupler end. That's it. |
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Iron and steel are poor conductors of heat and an air pocket covering the thermocouple inside pipe is even worse. While it will eventually heat, it will degrade the response of you controller. A diamond probe would be best. Silver next best. Since I couldn't afford either, I went with the third best heat conductor and used a copper sleeve to hold the TC to an L-bracket but that will change shortly. A bare TC next to your item is the best location.
I plan to change mine and mount the bare-tip TC on a movable swing arm that I can locate near the item(s) hanging inside. I was about to do this any way to test the temperatures at various locations in the oven. I'm not particularly satisfied with the "convection" design I'm using but the temperature at/near the item is most important. Controller response to temperatures is the next most important. |
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Hey Baz,
The current method is to simply draw the heated air from the top/back and blow it in at the bottom/back. I noticed that on a large tank I was trying to coat the ends were not curing at the same rate. It was obvious there were "cold" spots in the oven. A better way may be to create a motion of air/heat movement in the oven using a different method. The idea involves a design I'm not quite ready to make public just yet. It may be patentable. |
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