Electricial boxes

[Hexhead]

I have a self cleaning oven The elements are good. Just some of the top burners are toast. Oh ya and the display on the front of the oven is also toast. The thermostat is also OK ( I think tube inside oven) or it might be temp sensor. Even the inside light works!
Anyway I need how to by pass this stuff. I have taken off the top completely.

A digital thermostat
On off switch
Temperature controller
and a timer of sorts
This is my list of what I think I need.

I have a HF temperature senor

I'm keeping everything like it is as far as where the elements are and so on just need to add this stuff and small diagram would be nice. Not asking for much Huh.

Thanks

[JTW37]

Here is my wiring diagram. I have a few extras, like inline fuses and fan switch, light switch, etc.. Works for me. Finishing my second oven. Am using this same diagram for it when I get there.

[CarWiz]

Originally Posted by Hexhead

A digital thermostat
On off switch
Temperature controller
and a timer of sorts
This is my list of what I think I need.

I have a HF temperature senor

You won't need a thermostat if you use a controller. A PID controller IS the thermostat. Most will come with a thermocouple that tells the controller the current temperature. An on/off switch is a good idea. A timer is nice but not necessary if you're a clock watcher.

I have no idea what a "HF temperature senor" might be but I doubt if you'll need that either.

JT's diagram is a good start but the diagram for you will depend on what hardware you get. You should add a solenoid relay (contactor) or a couple of solid state relays (SSR) to your list.

[fl70]

I believe the "HF temperature senor" means an ir thermometer.
They are helpful to know when the part gets to temp.

[Hexhead]

Ya the HF temp gauge is the infrared senser that you point at the part to see at what temp part is.

I went to the electrical store and I don't know if I got someone educated beyond his intelligence or using all three of his brain cell at once, but he didn't know what I meant when I asked him about a contactor ( this was at a actual electric store not a Home depot). I even told him what I was trying to do. I guess I'll take in the drawing and let them look it over.

1. All I want to do is turn a switch and light up two Magic chef elements.
2. Be able to tell what temperature they've reached.
3. Time how long they stay on.
4. Shut that sucker off!!!

The question was asked what I had, well up above is what I've got a self cleaning Magic chef oven box and two baking elements no less no more.

Oh lordy please let me find a way to do it well I still have some hair left.

[CarWiz]

con·tac·tor (kŏn'tăk'tər, kən-tăk'-)
n.
An electrical relay used to control the flow of power in a circuit.


Evidently, it's not much of an electrical store.

[Hexhead]

JTW37 showed me a diagram that was real helpful and understood most of it. I PMed him but haven't heard back so I thought I'd ask the question here seeing the diagram is on this page.

1. On the contactor there is one element does each side of the element get a 110 ?

2. Being both elements will be running at the same time can I just run two more sets of wires to the other element.

3. On the controller there is two blue wires that go into a TC is this a thermocoupler?

4. the box to the right has three wires two black and a gray in the middle along with a green ground and their lettered L1 N L2 I'm assuming this means leg 1 neutral and leg 2. So is this the main lead in (power cord so to speak?)

5. in the center of the diagram there is a box with 8 post is this a bus block?

6. What size fuses should be used.

7. It looks like a on off switch below the bus block (if it is a bus block) I again assuming that turns the oven off and on.

If someone could clarify these points I would be eternally greatfull.

[CarWiz]

1. Actually, each side of the element gets 240v. When wired between L1 AND L2, the voltage is 240v. When wired between L1 OR L2 and Common (Neutral), the voltage is 120.

2. Yes. Make sure the contactor can handle the load though.

3. Yes.

4. Yes.

5. Most likely. It's often easier to wire the setup if you have a junction/buss block.

6. The size of the fuse depends on the device load and size of the wire used. A fuse is used to protect the wiring if a short occurs in a device or the circuit.

7. Yes, more or less. The switch turns power on/off to the controller. The lines to the contactor are still live so unplug the unit when working inside the panel.

[JTW37]

Hey Hex,
Sorry for not getting back to you on the PM. Haven't been on here to much lately. Been building my second oven. But it looks like CarWiz took care of your questions. If you have any further questions, you can e-mail me for a more timely response. For some reason when I read a PM it don't always go away as being read and I just assume that it is the same PM's. Gotta check them more often.

As for the fuses, I put those in line for the lights, fan & Controller, just in case of a short. The rest of it is protected with the breaker in the fuse box for the shop.

The Black and gray wires coming in probably should have been a black, red and white with green ground.

Your controller will most likely be different then mine, as mine is a Berger-Coleman. More for a Plastics Coloring Company in our area.

If you need to get a contactor or elements, this post has some info.

ready for oven to be wired

[Hexhead]

All righty then. Thanks Carwiz that's what I was looking for. I couldn't believe I got so many yeses as ignorant that I am.

JTW37 I know what you mean on the email stuff I'm always getting in trouble for thinking I read something and that I answered it.

I going to PM you again so I don't bore the forum on this subject.

Thanks again Carwiz for the time you took to 1,2,3 it I was hoping you would answer that way so the info wouldn't scrambled.