Hello everyone!

[Noride]

Hello everyone,
Long time lurker, first time poster... I'm in the process of wiring my "oven" but have fallen short of the mark. I have tried several schematics but I can't get my Contactor to power up the elements. I have tried many of the options I've found through the search function but still no dice. I would appreciate any and all help I can get from you guys. This is my set up:






2 - 2700watt elements
30amp breaker

[ed_denu]

You need to supply a little more information on how you are attempting to set this up. List the pid contact points you are using for the contactor and the settings for the pid. Also how you are wiring the contactor.

Here are a couple of things to look at also. Your contactor is a 120 vac model, so you cannot use the SSR connection points on the pid as these are DC only. The pid instructions should include a setting(usually called 'outy') which when changed(most likely to '1') allows for use of a 120 vac relay thru the J2 contacts.

You can trouble shoot many of these issues by using a multimeter to determine voltage at various points and settings. If you cannot get the contactor to enable power to the elements do this simple test. Set the target temperature of the pid to something greater than the ambient temperature. At this point the pid should energize the contactor to call for heat. Check the voltage at the contactor coil input tabs. You need to be reading 120 vac. If not, then the pid is not enabling the contactor so check the items I mentioned above. If you are seeing 120 vac input to the contactor coil, then check each leg of the contactor input and output. The elements need 240 vac to heat, they will not heat if only one 120 vac feed is present.

[Noride]

Thanks for replying ed_denu,

This is how I've done my wiring (AWG10);

I have tried playing with the settings on the PID but I don't have the manual to know for sure what I am doing. All the information I have for the PID is this;

I really appreciate your help ed_denu I'm really flying by the seat of my pants here...

[ed_denu]

I don't think your wiring is correct.

Connection points 1 and 2 on the PID are the input power connections, so connect one 120 vac line feed to terminal 1 and the neutral to terminal 2. The PID can also operate on 240 vac if you desire.

Then change the wiring so the power to the contactor coil comes from the PID. As I posted earlier, I believe the two coil connections should be connected to PID terminals 13 & 14.

Then with the PID powered up you can start the programming function. You should have received a manual with the PID, so you might want to contact the seller to see if one is available. My controller is a model TC-408 but it looks identical to yours and has the exact same connection points. You might take a look at this manual.

http://aliuy.com/TC-408%20instruction%201.pdf

If the programming functions for the TC-408 work on your unit, you might want to change the Configuration Parameter setting 'outy' to '1'. Enter a target temperature greater than ambient and do some of the simple tests I mentioned earlier to determine if you are getting power to the contactor. Let us know how it is going.

[PhredAre]

The manual for your PID is available by searching ColdfusionX TET612, looks like a reprogram of the PID J2 terminals as directed in previous post and a quick check with a voltmeter would do the trick, but.... if you were to get and SSR (8volt) with a heat sink,in the long run, you might be happier. You can do this with a single pole SSR , just wire up the elements like most electric stove elements are wired with only one legg switched. Good Luck. FRED

[Noride]

Thanks guys, I'll heed your advice and keep you posted!

[Noride]

Hello again guys,
I've made the changes ed_denu suggested and ran my wiring as he advised. I reprogram the "outy" function to 1 and checked my components with the multimeter. I am not getting a reading out of the 13 and 14 connections running to the coil. According to the "manual relay contact output(J1,J2) are electromechanical relays that do not provide power by themselves. External power is needed to drive the load". Does this mean I must supply current to J2(13,14) and then ran my connections to the coil? Sorry I'm such a knuckle head... electricity has always been this black juju thing for me... you know, diaper, electric receptacle, small metal object.......... I've also ordered an SSR as suggested by FRED just in case...

[CarWiz]

Yes, you must supply a line to one side of J2 (and/or J1 if used). Think of these as switches. When J2 is energised, contacts 13 & 14 are connected together--Like closing a switch.

Added: Just don't try to drive your heater coils with J1 or J2.

[Noride]

What should I use to drive the coils?

[CarWiz]

You'll be using your contactor to drive the heaters. The PID controls the contactor pull-in coils not the heaters themselves.