Building my first oven!! Help me out.

[wetdream]

Well after reading over this forum for the past few hours I've decided that I'm going to build my first oven instead of buying one. I own a performance/customization/restoration shop and have requests for powder coating all the time. We get requests for everything from motorcycle/snowmobile frames, control arms, etc. The ovens that I was looking at to buy were basically 6'x4'x4'. This seems like it would work for basically everything I need to do. So I'm looking for any insight I can get from you guys on doing this?? I have read about what gauge steel to use and burner size but am a little confused because there are a lot of opinions on this (especially the gauge and type of sheet metal to use). What is the best size so there is no warping?? How many and what size burners should I get for a quick warm up?? Anything would be appreciated?? Also does anyone know a "round a bout" cost of what it takes to build an oven of this size?? This will help me figure if I'm getting a decent price on my parts list.

Thanks,
Danee

[ed_denu]

I used 24 ga galvanized on everything but the floor. Some people prefer heavier, but I haven't seen any problems yet. Heavier gauge will take a little longer in the heat-up cycle, but then it won't cool as quickly either.

The biggest problem I think most people make is not looking at their electrical service first. A 96 cu ft oven will take a fair amount of amps to drive the elements. You will probably need a minimum of a 75 amp circuit for this size. If you are looking for a quick heat-up cycle as you stated you may need something closer to 100 amps.

I would think you could build this size for under $1K.

[nuttyman]

I have a 96 cubic foot oven & it pulls 33.4 amps. 3 2500W elements. temps up to 400 deg. in approx. 1/2 hr.

[roadsterdude]

hello wetdream, great name,iam new to this pc game been coating a couple of months.started building my oven a couple of weeks ago 6x4x4. using metal studs and 018 gauge galvanized sides, steel floor and ceiling. 3 3000 watts elements.having electrial unit built by ken.have about $1100. in it so far just a few more items to purchase.regret using the metal studs, i should of use angle iron i would be done by know.


hope this helps
jack

[wetdream]

Roasterdude, Why do you regret using the square tube?? It seems as though that is what everyone uses as I have read

Is the $1,100.00 you have into it including the controller from Ken??

[roadsterdude]

i am using the metal galvanized studs and there so dam flimsy to work with, yes the $$1100. includes the electrial unit.

[CarWiz]

It's not "square tube", he said he used "metal studs". The metal studs are like thin wall c-channel and available at most building centers. Once the inside or outside is on, it's sturdy but working with it before that is like building a shed out of tissue paper. But, it's cheap as a wall separator/frame. Rather than using angle iron, maybe purlins would be better. But the costs go up.

[wetdream]

Ya, I understand what he is talking about now. It is the metal framing used for like building walls. Usually used in buildings. I figured I would use the 2x2 square tube and weld it together for the framing...

[CarWiz]

If you do that, I'd alternate the studs like a sound wall with insulation in between. You'll be better off having at least 4" of insulation too rather than 2" between your studs. With no contact between the inside and outside walls, you'll get less transmitted heat to the outer wall. There's a noticeable transmission of heat at the stud contact points. A barrier wall would all but eliminate this.

[wetdream]

I kinda understand what you are saying but cant picture how to do it?? Your saying if i make just a 2" wall that where there is no insulation and just sheet metal/stud/sheet metal the heat will get to the outside, right??