Carwiz, got a minute?

[JTW37]

I'm having a dead brain issue with my PID hook up. I'm using a Contactor ( C25BNF240A Contactor, 40 Amps, 2 Poles, 120 Coil Voltage ) and the PID TET612. For the life of me I can't get it straight in my head how to run my jumpers. I just don't want to hook it up wrong and smoke it. The pic is the back side. I have 120v running to it and have the temp probe hooked up. I have a DPDT switch to turn it on and off. But can't seem to get this thing to go. Any thoughts?

The PID I used with my first oven is a Barber-Coleman. Oven works fine. But is wired differently.
Thanks, JT

[ed_denu]

Not carwiz, but the setup is pretty straight forward. Change PID parameter 'outy' to '1' and then use the J2 jumpers to control the contactor. Run a hot feed to PID terminal 13 and connect the 14 terminal to the A2 terminal of the contactor(A1 gets a neutral).

[CarWiz]

Ed beat me to it and as usual, he's dead on right. What most folks forget to change is the Output Type when using a contactor. Most PIDs are factory set for use with an SSR. This parameter changes the PID control from the SSR terminals to the relay terminals (J2). J1 will remain available as an alarm relay (high/low).

[JTW37]

Thanks guys! Hope I can get this done in the next couple of days. Could really use that oven for not so big of parts.

[JTW37]

Okay ed_denu & Carwiz,
Got it working. Turns on the contactor and heats up. Just need to finish a few small things and I will be cookin'. After my Son and I hooked up the wires, we had to run through the settings and got that done. So, THANKS for your help. Beers at my place. Maybe the Nats North

[JTW37]

Okay guys got the thing cooking, but I think to much so. The PID set to auto tune with outy set to 1. It got up over 525 and the inside glass cracked. The PID showed less then 400. So what did I not do right. Started to set parameters with the PASS set to 0089. But caused the heat problems I think. So shut it off, then went to the auto tune and it was running at 200 and 400, but the oven temp was upwards of 250 and 525. I let it cycle for quite awhile, but this thing worries me as I would most likely burn the powder off. Any idea's?
Thanks.

[CarWiz]

Need a little more info about the oven. What size is it? Does the PID read the correct ambient temperature at start up? Where and how is the TC mounted? (Type K?) Did you let the oven reach a PV of 400 before entering Auto-Mode? Did you change any of the other parameters? A list of the values you have at address 0036 and 0089 would help. Just jot down the values as you step through.

One value I forgot to mention is Control Period or "Ot" (0036:W05). The value should be raised when using a contactor. It shouldn't have caused your problem but bumping the value to between 5 and 15 seconds will extend the life of your load contacts; not to mention the PID relay. When you hear the relay clicking more than once every few seconds, it's better to raise this value. There's a few more values that should be changed along with it but let's see what you have now.

One more thing- Can you get the resistance of your contactor relay coil?

[JTW37]

Okay, here goes.
Here are the settings:
0036 settings
P=1
I=d
D=111
Souf=0.2
ot=02 (changed to 15) but mat go back to 5
File=0

0089 settings
inty= (looks like a backward L)
outy=1
Atdu=0
PS6=0
rd=0
C or F=1

It read ambient Temp 74 deg. The TC is mounted through the side through a black steel pipe (type K). The TC is in the open oven and not like my other with a cap on the pipe.

I did let it reach 400 b4 putting it in Auto. The parameters are all like the directions state I think. I did change some but it would show all E's in the display. so changed them to what I have listed.

I have attached a pic of the controller characteristics. It is the Cutler-Hammer C25BNF240A. The numbers that are blocked is "RES 50@600v".

This morning I went out and changed the 0036, ot from 2 to 15. Run it at 200* and then ramped up to 400* and set it in Auto. After fluctuating between 380 and 420 it finally settled down and would kick on at 399 and off at 400 and held that temp steady. I have two thermometers besides the TC. One is a Turkey Cooker therm (stuck through the door panel into the oven), which is reading 475* to 500* while the TC is showing 400*. The other one is a LUX from K-Mart. At first I had it attached to a set of Pole Barn door rollers (hanging from the top of oven) and it was reading high like the other.

Then I moved it from there and inserted it in the pipe with the TC and it was reading within 17 to 19* above 400 (TC temp) and doing it steady. Run the oven for about 45-55 minuets. So it may be running correctly. It just concerns me that the oven reading (which I did with two of the Turkey Temp readers & the Lux (from the top of the oven)) is up to 475-500*.

Yesterday it would not settle down at all. Today, it seems (?) to be okay. I will run some more test with it to make sure.

Kind of a long post, but that's everything I came up with.
Your taking the time for this, is greatly appreciated, Thanks! Beers on me.
JT

[CarWiz]

Yeah, you'll get EEEE if a parameter is out of range or inconsistent with other parameters. I couldn't cipher the resistance from the label. I was hoping you could measure with an ohmmeter but that's ok. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't overloading the PID relay. (3A max, IIRC).

I've listed your values and some new values I'd like you to try in blue. The Atdu (AT Skew) should have had something in it. It's used during Auto Mode as a target range. Yours being zero probably forced too much skew for the other control values. The default is 10 but I've run 3-5 with good results--If you have good insulation.

Try these values and run a cycle or two. Report what you find.

0036 settings
P=1 ---- 6
I=d ---- ?? Try 110
D=111 ---- ?? Set to default 20
Souf=0.2 ---- Set to .3 This should bring the Overshoot down
ot=02 (changed to 15) but mat go back to 5 ---- Yeah, try 4-5 for now.
File=0 ---- "Filt", Leave zero for now. But if temp jumps around again, set to 1

0089 settings
inty= (looks like a backward L) ---- OK-Yep, it must be Chinglish for "k".
outy=1 ---- OK
Atdu=0 ---- Set to 5.
PS6=0 ---- "PSb", This sets the TC off-set. If ambient is ok, leave zero.
rd=0 ---- Ok (0=heating)
C or F=1 ---- Ok (1=Fahrenheit display)

[CarWiz]

I forgot to mention. I would put more stock in the TC than one of those oven thermometers. I'm only at 650' AMSL so water boils right near 212*. Also, a Styrofoam cup packed with crushed ice and topped off with water will drop to about 33-34* (if you work fast). If you can find a way to test the TC/PID combo with a known temp, it should set your mind at ease. I've only had to adjust one of mine by -2*. I could have left it since that's within tolerance but I was being anal at the time.

Ken