Advice on chopping up a double oven to make a single? And other questions...

[spills]

I had a 30" oven that was fully digital (got it for $12! Just needed an element), but I left it plugged in, which I NEVER do but I just forgot, and of course lighting struck and apparently fried the control panel. New panel is $300+, so another oven was definitely the best option.

I found a 30" double oven on CL for $85. Pretty nice shape, it's got knobs so no control panels to worry about. I picked it up and took the doors off and the exterior panels. Im about ready to cut out the center section and make it into one oven. Im going to use the top oven's broil element and the bottom ovens bake element, and possibly incoprorate some kind of fan if necessary. What would you recommend on patching up the holes? Im sure I can re-use the metal that I cut out, but should I just use sheet metal screws? Should I use some sort of sealer around the patch panels?

2 more questions kinda on the same topic:

A. How come the 30" I had before measures 25" inside width, but this one I have (and another that I have looked at) measures 22.5" inside? Thought that was a little peculiar.

B. If sometime down the line I finally do make my own oven, and I still only use two elements, could I basically transfer all the components and wiring from the "single" double oven to my new fab'd oven? I know the bulk of the money is going to be in the actual framing and structural part of the oven, so if I can cut costs on the electronics by reusing what I already have then Im definitely going to try it.

[krownkustoms]

I think your best bet would be to weld the patch panels in so you don't have to worry about leaks.

A... Not sure

B... Yes you could incorporate all of the electronics into the new oven. It should be pretty simple.

[JTW37]

I used the elements from a couple of ovens as well as SOME of the wiring. I bought some Hi-temp wire to run from the elements to the contactor. I bought a contactor and a PID w/thermocouple. The controls and thermocouple in a house oven are not that accurate for temp control. So, do yourself a favor and get those two items.

[spills]

thanks for the reponses guys. I dont have access to a welder per-say, so I would like to try and avoid that, though to me that would be the ideal way to seal up the patches. I wonder if they make some kind of sealer for fireplaces or something. Or what about taking some foil tape and putting it around the seams? I know this may look trashy, and Im not sure how much heat it would take before either burning or loosing its adhesion properties, but if it works then I might give it a shot.

[krownkustoms]

I used fireplace caulk from Lowes its good up to 2000*F and its cheap. After I used it JTW97 told me about some that stays flexible which I would have much rather used. The link he gave me has expired but its called Rutland Red RTV 600 degree High Heat Silicone Sealant if you can find it. The foil tape says it is good to 200*F but I heated it with a torch and it held up to far more than an oven will reach before the adhesive liquefied. I covered all of my rivet seams with it. I will let you know how it goes when I fire it up for the first time.

[rbroker]

Thats what i did! I cut out the center section of my double oven i got for free on CL. Long story short it works good....Now. I found a 70 degree difference between the top and bottom of the oven when standing normally. Tilted it on its side, problem mostly solved. But when i got within 6" of the elements I would get extreme hot spots. That made my usable area very small. I had to put fire brick on the bottom to get it to work. It takes an hour and a half to reach 400... the price i have to pay to get it right. Now I can be an inch off the brick no problem.

I also changed the way the door opened and that was its own set of challenges.

I had to calibrate the oven, because 400 degrees is almost 500 on the dial. the other one is at about 450 to get 400. Get a convection oven fan as it was the only way to eliminate the hot spots.

The racking is difficult now, the way its pictured here is not the way I would do it again. I welded two small racks into one large one and usually hang stuff from it. I would use existing racks and weld them into the oven on their side. Easy and simple.

Over all dimensions are 35"L x 18"D x 19"H. Its too bad I can't fit any 18" rims in here... DOH!

Make sure you brace the oven together before you cut anything apart. I didn't any everything got out of square. Pain in the arse. U can use the high temp caulking but it cracks and flakes off if its near the elements. Plus it gives off a funky oder that I'm sure isn't good for me.


Hey after its all said and done I got about 70 bucks in it. Put a vent hood on top to suck out the hot air.


I just realized the pics suck, but I'll take new ones with the fire brick in there if you want.

Good luck, I have about 40 hours into tweaking this baby. She's ugly, put she puts out.

[rbroker]

I just read you don't have a welder.

Your F'd without one.

One more pic.

[krownkustoms]

rbroker does that thing leak or what. how many watts are you running, that thing should heat up a little faster than that. I have a 7' x 4' x 2.5' @ 9000Watts for motorcycle frames and such, and it heats up in an hour with leaky seals in the doors.

[JTW37]

Originally Posted by rbroker

U can use the high temp caulking but it cracks and flakes off if its near the elements. Plus it gives off a funky oder that I'm sure isn't good for me.

There is two other caulks that work pretty good and don't flake off. I have used the Red, but there is a black. They are rubberized and stay put with NO flaking. I found mine at Menard's, but you can get it on line. Only problem is some of it comes in a nine pack, I think. But look around locally and see if you can find it.

Here is a couple of statements about it.

500 F. heat resistant silicone sealant forms a tough, rubbery adhesive seal that withstands 450 F. continuously and 500 F. intermittently. Uses include: sealing fireplace inserts, stoves, flashings, solar panel repairs - anywhere a black or translucent permanent elastic seal is needed. Adheres to most materials. Acetoxy cure. Meets ASTM C920-86. 10.5 oz. cartridge.

No. 76: BlackNo. 76C: Translucent

Rutland 600 RTV super red high-heat silicone sealant is a neutral cure (no odor) ultra-performance sealant. Without harsh odor, it's the perfect choice for application in confined areas. It forms a tough rubbery seal, and keeps it's flexibility even in heat enviroments of up to 550 F. continuous and 600 F. intermittent. It adheres to glass, metal, plastic, fiberglass, aluminum, wood, brick, and slate. Greatly improved adhesion to masonry makes it the ideal choice on chimneys and flashings. Its neutral cure prevents corrosion on copper or galvanized chimney flashings.

Here is the link on these.
Shop by brands at doitbest.com, The World's Largest Hardware Store®

Hope it helps. I'll post in the oven build sticky as well.

[spills]

Originally Posted by rbroker

I just read you don't have a welder.

Your F'd without one.

One more pic.

Actually, no Im not. Im hinging the last door today and Im done. You dont need a welder, though it would make it a little easier, it isn't essential.