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Old 09-16-2003, 01:46 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1
The_tango
Default Low temp for alum wheels

I know that you should heat alum (motorcycle) wheels the the temps that normal powers require - weakens the wheel.

Is there a power that will work using temps of 275F or below? If so who has it for sale?

Thanks
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Old 09-16-2003, 09:29 PM
Amateur Metal Finisher
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 162
Fireblade
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Your talking bout 6061 aluminum, and I thought the temp was above 350 degrees for a period of time. BUT, lots of aluminum heads are made of 6061, and they see some HIGH temps in the combustion chamber and they do fine. So I am still not fully sure of this. I can tell you this though, I have done my wheels and many other motorcycle wheels, I keep the temp at around 320. I have tested them many times on racetracks with speeds approaching 170mph and they are fine. On the street, I have hit some bumps and such, no problems with bending or anything. I think if there would be any problems, they would just bend easier. Not a catastrophic blowout.
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Old 09-19-2003, 05:51 PM
Experienced Metal Finisher
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: CT-NY-NJ area
Posts: 359
non-stick
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ok....aluminum can withstand a "flash" of extremely high temperatures. Hence, a kernal of combustion for a cyl head. The surrounding water in the jackets cools it quickly enough so as it doesn't warp. The higher the temperature, the quicker it must subside. I've coated tons of aluminum and wheels before. I have yet to have a problem with any Tiger Drylac where the substrate needs to reach a PMT(part metal temperature) of 420 for 16 minutes (assuming poly and hybrid powders). I know this may not sit well with some of you....so I back my experience up with testing. I've used rockwell gauges and an instron to detect any difference in the substrate and have found none. It all works just fine as if it has never been heated extremely. After the thermoset process, I remove the wheel or what have you to cool in open air as a "quench" if you will. Personally...I'd clear coat the wheel as it preserves the original color intended, and it's more durable (no pigmentation to impede coating performace). There are some finishes that don't require this though ( Morton's mirror black is a longtime favorite of mine.....so dead sexy that powder on certain things. Looks almost like black chrome). I personally hang the rim with copper wire bound around the inside race of the wheel and a metal hook to the inside of the oven. Gema-Ransburg gun set at 34Kv and a very light air pressure. Mask off any threaded holes with a silicone plug and you'll do just fine (cork also works for the holes). Hope that helps
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Old 09-25-2003, 12:40 PM
Experienced Metal Finisher
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: CT-NY-NJ area
Posts: 359
non-stick
Default oops

oops....need to clarify what I just wrote. The 34Kv was for industrial use on those specific guns. Doing further research here and looking at capabilities, the Caswell guns are not capable of that. I'd start off at around 8KV and work slowly up to 16KV and see what results you get. Sorry...tough to formulate some of the industrial stuff into hobbyist sometimes, please forgive . Take care all...Russ
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