lamp

[BRANDONPEAKE]

i would really like to know about the lamps
they are alot better for my application where i need them , but if they dont work, they would not do me any good
are the gas ones any better than the electric?

[warchild]

I tryed the lamp agin at 6'' away for 8 min then for 20 min. and it still didn't work.

[mildman61755]

We used to use the IR lights at the car manufacturing plant where I work at. Now we just use the hand held ones. I've found out that using the big IR's only; wouldn't cure, especially with a thick coat, we're talking about wet spray paint. I like to use the hand held ones to flash the solvents out, then use a heat gun or regular lamp panel,has 8 sun lamp like bulbs, to cure. Some times small areas, like door jambs or small blends, will cure out with the IR. Hope this sheds a little light on the subject,lol! Steve

[non-stick]

warchild... the powder flowed out and you had the lamp there for 10-15 minutes but it didn't cure? Explain in a little more detail please. Was it a clear and it cracked or something? How do you know you didn't have a full cure? Just curious.

[warchild]

I used the FLAT BLACK POWDER and it came out with a gloss look to it. and i used the same powder in the oven and it came out flat black like it was supose to do. i will try to post a pic of 4 things i did. 2 in oven and 2 with lamp in the Album.

[non-stick]

wow that's certainly a difference worth mentioning. The second piece from the left looks a might bit orange peelish. Is the metal you are putting that in thick or solid? My guess is that the coating heated up and got flow, but the PMT never really came up to temp and it all cured rather quickly. Matte finishes have this effect coming out of an oven when cured at a lower temp for some odd reason as well. They get a satiny type of look to them when the PMT hasn't been established for a predetermined amount of time. I'd try backing off a few inches on the light and going longer on the cure cycle. See if that helps a bit. Anybody else with any suggestions?

[duke]

looking at that outcome makes me think it's worth the investment to spend $80-$100 for a laser temp gauge.seems it's the safest way when p/cing heavy metal. if that is what the problem was.
cheers

[non-stick]

as much as I hate to admit it.... that's the major downfall with any IR system... professional or otherwise. It's a "guess" until you establish distance for your parts. It's a good investment to have I believe. Duke... post a link here of the model you are talking about and where to purchase it please. Thanks.... Russ

[drfjr1976]

Here is what I use on every part that I coat.


*website edited by non-stick*

ehhhhhh..... this is where I have to look like the bad guy. I seriously wish I didn't have to bud,honest. Let's give it a little more time before we go that route and see if something from a Home-Depot or Lowes type of site can't be found,k? Sorry.... It's not often I have to put the moderator hat on, but I hope you understand the position it puts me in. With the talent in this forum, I'm sure a reasonable solution can be had.

[non-stick]

it works for me! Tell me.... if Caswell carried something like this, would you guys buy them? Just curious. I see it as a useful tool, but everybody is different.