PC clearcoat PROs and CONs......

[dsacco1013]

I am going to order the Reflective or "chrome" powder, and was wondering is the clearcoat essential? All my widgets :P will be on an engine and under a hood. I doubt they will see much sun or rain.

Dave

[non-stick]

non-essential, I say. just my .02

[drfjr1976]

Not required, but why not. I had done some parts under the hood on my personal truck. Some left uncleared and some i did.They both looked great but you could tell that the cleared parts kept a better shine. And when I had a radiator hose blow, it messed up the finish on the uncleared parts while the others cleaned up pretty good.

[tomg552001]

The one downfall of uncleared chrome from my experience is like drfjr1976 mentrioned, its chemical reisstance. Simple chemicals break the surface and discolor it easy, It eats right through the chrome and turns it a dark noticeable grey, atleast in my testing it has

[Hemi-T]

Yes, clear coated chrome powder has much more resistance to discoloration from oil and gasoline. Chrome powder without a clear coat will not last as long. My experience with chrome powder is that the initial finish is excellent, but won't last long term without a clear top coat. I chrome PC'd my tunnel ram and a few other parts last June, and this summer I will take them off and re-coat them using a clear coat. The results are not disastrous by any means, but I can tell after 8 months that the show-car quality finish will not be there by the end of summer 2004. Car washes, chemicals, and other things are reducing the shine on the non-clear coated chrome powder.

Hemi-T

[DALE]

Plus you have to love that wet deep look the clear adds.

[dsacco1013]

I have a serious problem applying powder to thick, Right Russ...Huh Tom? Anyway how can you tell how thick the clear is? Also do you scuff the "Base" coat so the clear powder will stick? Apply them both then cure as one?

Thanks Dave

[Hemi-T]

Nope, just coat and cure the chrome powder like normal, and allow part to fully cool. Then coat with clear and cure again just like normal. No scuffing necessary. If properly cured, the first (chrome) coat will not re-melt, and the second coat (clear) will cure perfectly right over the top of it.

I've screwed up (missed spots) on parts and had two and even three coats of powder on a part. Don't re-prep the part, just coat again and cure like normal. Don't wait a few days though... when you notice a missed spot, recoat the whole part again and cure. It works great for me. That's why powder is very "forgiving".

Hemi-T

[non-stick]

exactly.... just switch over to your clear and coat over the part and cure as long as the oven is up to temperature. The powder (if fresh enough, hence why Hemi said to do it within a specific time frame) should cross-link and bond all as one solid coating. As for your being heavy handed... I wouldn't be so quick to judge on that one. Let's just call it too much of a good thing in application and technique. I'd take another look at the tips and tricks section and the words on overcoming Farrady effect to get a better understanding as to what's going on with some specific parts of yours, is all. Go after the toughest angles first ( fly right in there and coat the areas that you know are rough first off) and then back off giving it a good "overall" hit. It should all look pretty uniform after that, coating wise. ( like a thick version of morning dew on your windshield). The clear is no different. Keep going until you have that "loss of gloss" effect and then just a tad bit further to ensure proper flow out and all should be fine. I have no doubts you'll overcome these problems VERY shortly.