New to Forum ...and oh my God are there questions!

[FSTFBDY]

Ive always outgased at a Higher Temp then the cure temps. I'll outgas for 20min once the parts reach a 400-425*

If oil seeps out of some spots (harley frames,etc) I'll reclean em again.
I wipe everything down with denatured Alky befor anything gets coated.
Some times I shoot at the 150* some times I shoot cold.

practice,practice,practice. Shoot a scrap part 1st to get use to your gun.

[pickleboy]

Originally Posted by mikekozura

7. return part to oven now what I do is wait until the powder is flowed out then start the timer for what ever the powder says all the powder i have done was 20-25 min. I do 25 min. from that point. I mean I could be wrong I've never checked the part temp but I think it's there.

just a tidbit of info to think about on this part of the process. and not to say that mike is wrong, it has most likely worked and been right for the parts he has done. when doing small, lightweight or tubular parts the part will come up to temp fairly quick so mikes process is most likely ok. on heavy parts like engine block, wheels and such the difference between flow out, which can occur between 275-350 degrees, and the final cure temp of say 400 degrees may take longer than the 25 minutes. and the cure cycle truly doesn't start till the part gets to say 400. i know this is nit picking but it can save a job from redo. it is costly, but not as much as a hobby gun, invest in a laser thermometer. it will save headaches in the long run on larger parts. especially if, like me, your oven is slow to come up to temp.

[sswee]

A second on what pickle said.
I just did a flywheel off an outboard motor that took over a hour to get to temp. The other alum parts I did came up to oven temp 5-10 minutes after the oven got to the temp setting.
SS

[KwikKatt]

Well thanks fellas... I can't wait to give this a go. Really appriciate all the time and info you guys gave...beers on me!!