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You will never get 100% coverage. The part will allways need to rest on, or be hung by somewhere. As well and being a ground point. Now, you can shoot hot, to cover up the ground point. I have had mixed luck with recoating. If you have fully cured the part, then it will have to be coated FULLY again, and not just touched up. The cured powder will not "re-melt" and blend with the second coat. If you are going to be doing stuff you know will have light spots, I usually bake for 2-3 min past flowout, then pull it out. Now, the powder has flowed, but has not been cured, so you can add more in the areas that may need it, then re-flowout the powder, and bake for the full time. That way usually allways comes out nice for me
Now, as far as tricky or large pieces, I have also found it easiest to spray the side that will me mostly unseen first, then fully bake and cool. Then spray/bake the seen side. I do car rims this way. Spray/bake the insides, and let fully cool. That way, the inside powder is cured. Then I spray the outside. But it al depends on the style of rim.
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Dan Pesonen Bandit Powder Coat <<From Powder to Perfection>> Forest Grove, BC Canada Personal motto: "If it ain't broke, modify somethin till it is" Last edited by Banditperformance; 09-28-2006 at 03:47 AM. |
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NOt always. The rack can imprint itself in the previously done finish when it's heated up to cure temp
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Dan Pesonen Bandit Powder Coat <<From Powder to Perfection>> Forest Grove, BC Canada Personal motto: "If it ain't broke, modify somethin till it is" |
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