Fluidized bed stripping for cured powder

[ublinkd]

I am looking at alternatives to stripping cured powder off of parts instead of using chemicals. The excerpt below is from this website. I was wondering if anyone has built something like this? It seems to be the best method mainly because it cleans the part while stripping it of its’ powder. The main thing I am trying to figure out is what material could stand up to that kind of temperature while being finely porous enough to allow for proper fluidization. Any information will be appreciated. Thanks!

Ps. I did a search on "Fluidized bed stripping" and "Fluidized bed" and didn't find what I needed.



Fluidized bed stripping systems use inert media (sand or oxides) as a heat transfer medium. Basically, these systems ignite natural gas or propane in a chamber below the tank and force this heat through the medium using air pressure. The heat is transferred to the medium and the gas/air pressure “fluidizes” the medium, just like a fluidized powder hopper. Hangers or products are lowered into the fluidized tank where the hot medium (approximately 800F) breaks down the coating, and the scrubbing action of the medium removes any ash. Parts or hangers removed from this process are essentially clean and require no additional cleaning efforts. Normally these systems are used in batch type operations, but they can be automated for inline processing of hangers.

[Banditperformance]

I normally chemical strip, or media blast to remove powder.

[ublinkd]

Originally Posted by Banditperformance

I normally chemical strip, or media blast to remove powder.

What chemical are you using?
How effective is it?
$?
I want to stay away from chemicals but if that is my best option I will go for it.

With media blasting...

Can you blast aluminum or will it destort it?
What media/grit are you using?
What psi do you blast at?

Thanks for the info!

[Banditperformance]

I use Aircraft Stripper, like Tal Strip 2 http://www.bondo-online.com/catalog_...sp?itemNbr=320

I presently only do a little blasting, as I have to borrow a compressor and have to blast outside, which is really wastefull on sand. WHen I have to blast, I use Silica Sand, because it's the cheapest here. But you have to watch out, need a reparator because the sand is harmfull to your lungs in dust form. For most of my larger items, I send them to the local sandblaster first. Not to bad of a deal especially considering I don't have to deal with the mess, not do I have to get a large compressor(mine is only 5CFM). You can also check with the local engine rebuild shop, as they often have a hot tank. WHich works wonders on rims, valve covers, etc. They let it soak overnigfht and it comes out spotless. Then, do a final degrease/bakeoff, and then a Phosphate coat, good to go

[bzer1]

ublinkd, I have actually seen a fliudized stripper in action. I doubt that this is a viable technology for a small shop. To begin with heating the medium requires an intense amount of heat, and a vessel that can take both the heating process and the stripping process. The unit I saw was about 20ft long and was a conveyer type setup. I imagine that it used an incredible amount of natural gas and the blasting media wore out very quickly.

As fas as stripping goes, I like the sprayon aerosol for small jobs and plain old zip strip for bigger applications. What ever you use make sure you use it in a well ventilated area and you have plenty of water on hand just in case. Other than that I just media blast pretty much everything. I use aluminium oxide so it makes short work of most coatings.

[ublinkd]

which zip strip do you use? If you look at that link it has many kinds.


Also Banditperformance,
Where do you buy your Tal Strip 2 from?

Thanks to everyone for your input!

[bzer1]

I use the original formula. It's cheap, it works every time, and it's available locally. For convenience I really like the Sprayon aerosol stripper as well.