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Please see that attached photos.
Look closely at the pictures and make suggestions on how to get powder on the areas that are not being covered. I have tried low voltage, high voltage light powder, and heavy powder. The only thing I have not done is to heat the wheel and then shot the powder. I really do not want to do that because if it does not work then I really have a mess. Right now all I have to do is blow the power off and try something else. (I have tried heating between attempts. There is nothing on the metal as I have had it in the sand blast many times thinking there was still primer on the wheel.)
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Glenn R. Lever Rochester, New York 14617-2012 My Cars http://www.leverfamilysite.com/vehicles.htm Control arm Info http://www.leverfamilysite.com/GM_A_body.htm Join us July 6-8, 2007 for the 5th Annual Northern Chevelle Gathering, Niagara Falls, NY!!! Last edited by autoshopowner; 02-12-2007 at 02:32 PM. |
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Yes, if you look closely at the photo you will see where the metal has no powder on it at all.
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Glenn R. Lever Rochester, New York 14617-2012 My Cars http://www.leverfamilysite.com/vehicles.htm Control arm Info http://www.leverfamilysite.com/GM_A_body.htm Join us July 6-8, 2007 for the 5th Annual Northern Chevelle Gathering, Niagara Falls, NY!!! |
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That is a tough area (Faraday Cage effect). I would try a bit more powder and less voltage. Get fairly close to the part and shake the tip of the gun in a short quick side to side motion.
Here's a trouble shooting guide, look at section 2.6. http://www.tiger-coatings.com/filead...guide2_usa.pdf |
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Heat it up to about 200* and pull it out of the oven, set your gun at its lowest voltage and about 20PSI air, and shoot it in them areas first. Might wanna experiment as the wheel is hot and stepping the voltage up slowly. Sometimes it will wrap better when its hot.
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Here is an update. What I ended up doing was preheating to 190, removed the ground, dropped the voltage to 35K, dropped the air to 15 pounds and had the powder flowing as fast as I could get it to go (filled the cup up to 3/4 full)
I shot the power at a 45-degree angle going one way around the wheel then at a 45-degree angle going the other way around the wheel, flipped the wheel over and did it all over again. If interested I will be posting my wheel jig in that thread shortly. Thanks for the help. The black band in the inside of the wheel is a rubber strip put there by the wheel manufacturer to seal any air leaks that might take place around the spokes. I called them and was told that the heat would not affect the rubber and it did not. If I ever do spoked wheels again there will be a premium charge to do them.
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Glenn R. Lever Rochester, New York 14617-2012 My Cars http://www.leverfamilysite.com/vehicles.htm Control arm Info http://www.leverfamilysite.com/GM_A_body.htm Join us July 6-8, 2007 for the 5th Annual Northern Chevelle Gathering, Niagara Falls, NY!!! |
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removing the deflector helps out alot , I remove it for doing motorcycle jugs,, that way i can get down into it more,, Did you PC the inside of the rims with the hanging system yuo are useing
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The gun I use is a Red Line Alpha. It has a set of tips, one of which points all the powder straightforward, very much like a paint spray gun. I use it all the time and like it better then the normal diffuser.
Yes I used the stand to do the powder coat on the wheels. I do the backside first. Then flip the wheel over and do all of the rest of the wheel. Works really well.
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Glenn R. Lever Rochester, New York 14617-2012 My Cars http://www.leverfamilysite.com/vehicles.htm Control arm Info http://www.leverfamilysite.com/GM_A_body.htm Join us July 6-8, 2007 for the 5th Annual Northern Chevelle Gathering, Niagara Falls, NY!!! |
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