Ceramic Coating How To?

[GeneNewcomb]

Youall might remeber that I was looking for something to coat MS to replace my SS pins I use in latches. www.customdie.com
Well the good news is that my main customer on the SS part has OKed the ceramic coating but the bad news is that I cannot for the life of me get a good quote out of the coating guys. I am not real eager to send them several hundred dollars a month when they can't get me a firm price. I've been shooting for a quarter and they say that is about right but w/ at least a few thousand parts a month I really need a price.
That combined wuth the facts that we are loosing business to China out the yazoo and I build ovens makes me think I should do them in house even though I don't want to learn new tricks.
I have a powder gun but I think ceramic is liquid? I might be able to get a powder epoxy approved.
So what kind of gun do I need for ceramic? What are the curing requirements? It is not a high heat resistant coating I am looking for but all the ceramics are high heat?
I'm building two ovens now, one for sale one to keep, and they are good over 500'. Be done next week.
What else do I need?
Thanks in advance,
Gene

[jtagger19]

ceramic coatings are for high heat applications
for ceramic coating you only need an HVLP gun with a .5 or 1.0mm tip
other work but smaller the better for deap areas
chrome ceramic cures at 500 for 1 hour (part temp)
others are available in oven or ambient cure which don't need an oven
( satin black, satin silver, gold ,etc.)

chrome ceramic needs to be polish by hand or tumbler after cure.

[GeneNewcomb]

Well this ceramic coating is for corrosion resistance.
The below is from Powder by the pound:
HIGH HEAT CERAMIC CHROME.....DRY PARTS IN OVEN FOR 450 DEGREES AT 30 MINUTES. REMOVE FROM OVEN LET COOL AND SPRAY YOUR PART WITH CERAMIC USING A HVLP OR TOUCH UP GUN AND A 0.8 TIP. LET AIR DRY FOR 20 MINUTES THEN PLACE INTO OVEN AT 175 DEGREES FOR 20 MINUTES. WHILE PART IS STILL IN OVEN CURE AT 500-700 DEGREES FOR 60 MINUTES. ONLY ON THE CHROME DO YOU NEED TO POLISH AFTER FULLY CURED. THIS IS HOW YOU ACHIEVE THE REFLECTIVE CHROME APPEARANCE. USE FINE STEEL WOOL OR 600 GRIT WET/DRY SANDPAPER. A FINAL POLISH WITH A BUFFING WHEEL, 1200 GRIT SANDPAPER, POLISHING COMPOUND, OR GLASS BEADING AT 25-30 PSI WILL BRING OUT AN EVEN BRIGHTER FINISH. DO NOT USE SCOTCH-BRIGHT OR SIMILAR MATERIAL
How will it look without a polish because it is not shiney after a acid wash?
Gene

[jtagger19]

it comes out of the oven white colored
acid wash? or you mean tumbler wash?
chrome ceramic needs to be polish , there is no way around it.
either by hand or tumbler
blasting it at 25 psi with glass beads gaves you a light silver finish ,looks good but not chrome .

for corrosion resistance I trust powder more than ceramic ( unless is for high heat parts)
I've done parts in powder wich are over 5 years old and still intact ( in use)
however the longest I've seen ceramic last is 3 years ( in use)

[GeneNewcomb]

What kind of powder should I use with some impat resistance.
The parts get acid washed along with the trailer when they reach the end of the production line. It takes the weld black off and unfortunately zinc plating also.
Tumble with what kind of media? Wet or dry?
Gene

[jtagger19]

epoxy and polyester are very strong but epoxy is not UV stable
for polishing ceramic on a tumbler you need 1mm microbright ceramic balls and and acidic soap , you drop the part in for 10 minutes and it comers out highly polished.

[GeneNewcomb]

What does the polyester look like? I don't need a chrome finish but a shine would be nice. Similar to a good zinc or the SS I am replacing.