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I held the part and shot the gun with no real change in anything.
I grounded the parts directly to the part it self or to the hook its hanging by. The only thing that I've found to help me is heating the part like crazy to about 230 degrees, then shoot. It bakes the powder on as I'm shooting the part, which works just fine, but if I need to do a yellow valve cover with black letters for instance, the yellow will bake right over the black. First, I tried shooting the black, taping the letters, then shooting the yellow. The yellow was thin in the hard to reach areas and along the edges. I then sanded and tried again, but this time the yellow ran under the tape and ruined it. I sanded it one more time and shot the black over the letters. Once cured I noticed the letters were almost filled in from having so many layers of powder I know that taping the letters isn't a good idea, but I can't just wipe it off if I pre-heat the parts just to get the powder to stick. Jeez...that was alot to type haha and I'm honestly stuck. Thanks again, John |
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I've been shooting alot of super mirror black lately and I love the stuff! Always lays out nice and smooth with great coverage. Yet, I'm still having to really heat up the parts to around 230-250. The results are awesome, even with other colors, but I don't think this is common practice...is it?
Anyways, here are a couple pictures of a Nissan valve cover and after market intake manifold that I just finished in super mirror black. ![]() ![]() |
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I had the gun plugged into a powder strip...but I did start plugging strait into the extension cord...it does seem to be working better, still seems like I'm wasting waaaay too much powder.
Thanks again for your input guys! John |
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re the moisture problem, a good place to start is the automatic drain from harbor freight for like $13. you plumb it into pressure relief valve line and every time the compressor cycles on or off, the pressure difference in the line opens the valve to blow out water, so it does it twice per cycle. works great.
also note that it's best to run the airline as high as possible right out of the compressor in a metal pipe. the metal pipe lets the air cool and water condense out and then the condensed water has to work against gravity. a rubber hose right from the compressor doesn't let the air cool to condense the water vapor. if you're serious about the moisture, install in the line far from the compressor/close to the gun 1) a coalescing filter, 2) a dessicant filter (get one that you can remove the dessicant and bake it to regenerate (dry and reuse) it), 3) a regulator/particulate filter, in that order. the particulate filter catches the little bits of silica dust from the dessicant. a quality setup will probably run you $200-250. if you have more time than money, search for threads on how to make a dessicant filter. you valve cover looks nice! great start!
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