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Thread: Chicago gun

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    cajos1968 is offline Newbie
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    Default Chicago gun

    I have some issues with powder coating. It seems that there is not enough current between object and gun. Even if I direct the gun towards the clip there is a small spark, where as there use to be a big one. Any one have a clue?

    It is 20F could the cold be the problem or is it the equipment? Maybe a cleaning issue? WHAT!!!

  2. #2
    SCOTTRODS's Avatar
    SCOTTRODS is offline Metal Finishing Guru
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    Default Re: Chicago gun

    Quote Originally Posted by cajos1968 View Post
    I have some issues with powder coating. It seems that there is not enough current between object and gun. Even if I direct the gun towards the clip there is a small spark, where as there use to be a big one. Any one have a clue?

    It is 20F could the cold be the problem or is it the equipment? Maybe a cleaning issue? WHAT!!!
    Aside from the little tantrum I think it's possible that the temp is causing the issue,.... a little. But the more likely reason is a poor ground of the part. Doesn't matter if the gun ground is there and great or not,.... if there's no ground in the electrical box/outlet. Ground the part to true ground. That should help a lot. Then hook the gun's ground to that true ground,.... all will work like a champ.

    When I say true ground, I mean true ground... EARTH. Drive a stake in the ground as deep as you can (they sell grounding stakes at Home depot,... they're 8 feet long and a bugger to hammer into the ground. The standard is to get the whole thing except the top into the ground..... That means you can dig a long trench and bury it according to code around here..... or drive it in at an angle or whatever..... leave enough to make a connection to it also),... they sell the clamp for your wire at HD too.

    Run a solid core ground wire (10 gage or so if you can find some cheap enough, from the rod outside, through a wall,(yes, you'll want to drill as small of a hole as you can get away with) and seal it on both sides of the wall, (inside and outside). Make a solid copper block and mount it to the wall, or attach a solid wire in a place so you can attach your work to it via a good jumper wire,.... once again I'll recommend some 10 gage, this time, multi-strand wire for this one for flexibility..... Using some kind of clamp you like, attach the wire from the block to your hanging rod or something nearby so that you can use an even smaller wire to attach to the part you're shooting......

    Sorry for the long post, but that should get you near your goal of attraction of powder to part.
    Last edited by SCOTTRODS; 12-29-2008 at 06:57 PM.

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    cajos1968 is offline Newbie
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    Default Re: Chicago gun

    So the ground clip is actually "earth" ground.

    That makes since, Since I'm in Europe I use a 220/110 converter this has no ground!! Hmmm, can I hook the clip up to the oven ground that is next to my booth?

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    SCOTTRODS's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chicago gun

    Quote Originally Posted by cajos1968 View Post
    So the ground clip is actually "earth" ground.

    That makes since, Since I'm in Europe I use a 220/110 converter this has no ground!! Hmmm, can I hook the clip up to the oven ground that is next to my booth?
    Keep in mind..... This stuff works like a static pop from walking across the carpet in your socks. It looks for a ground potential to "discharge to. The best is earth ground. If your oven is grounded then by all means give it a go. If the part retains ground (which is the goal here) the powder will stick to it by static attraction for a very long time.

    If the oven ground is no good, do the "rod" thing. Some folks just tap a piece of reinforcement rod a couple of feet long into the ground.... Some use the full ground rod.... It's up to you how you manage a ground. The issue I have is trying to keep my insurance, building code, and all the nosey people at bay..... I used the 8' rod and still need to pound it in a little further.... I'm not sure i can do much better really, but I have an awesome ground from what I've forced into the ground thus far.

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    Default Re: Chicago gun

    so what you guys are saying is,The part that is being coated doesnt have to be grounded by the ground wire from the pc box as long as the wire is connected to a ground of some sort?

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    SCOTTRODS's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chicago gun

    Quote Originally Posted by BRIANSBODYSHOP View Post
    so what you guys are saying is,The part that is being coated doesnt have to be grounded by the ground wire from the pc box as long as the wire is connected to a ground of some sort?
    That's correct..... Using the term "doesn't Have to be" is the aim. I use bothe the earth ground and the gun ground most of the time though. I get excellent results that way.

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    cajos1968 is offline Newbie
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    Default Re: Chicago gun

    Checked the wiring "visually" and nothing seems to be wrong. Grounding to different objects is no change. The main wire to the gun seems to be some sort of coax cable? Is that a right assumption? Is there a way to check the internals? I have little to no spark and power doesn't stick to the object.

    How does the system work, the metal rod is charged?

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Chicago gun

    Quote Originally Posted by cajos1968 View Post
    Checked the wiring "visually" and nothing seems to be wrong. Grounding to different objects is no change. The main wire to the gun seems to be some sort of coax cable? Is that a right assumption? Is there a way to check the internals? I have little to no spark and power doesn't stick to the object.

    How does the system work, the metal rod is charged?
    The gun works by corona effect. Yeah,... the powder is supposed to pick up a charge as it passes along the "rod". If you are plugged in and no powder in the gun, you should be able to step on the pedal and discharge a spark to a piece connected to the ground,... or even the ground clip itself. If the gun came from HF and doesn't work.... take it back and exchange it for a new one. Make for sure certain that you're pedal is pressed. I usually just lay a brick or something heavy on mine when i use that gun. I have two different models of HF Chicago guns too. One has a metal Spacer around the "rod" and the other, the spacer is molded into the barrel. The one with the metal spacer works best.... Tiwce as good even. The better of the two is also taller than it is wide on the control box face. The one that's not as good has a "flattened shape", being wider than it is tall.

    It seems funny to even compare tow Cheap guns against each other, but there are differences that make a difference,.... and there are some that are negligible.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Chicago gun

    The version of HF gun that I got has the dumb plastic looking piece that the rod goes through. Is that the one that you have ScottRods?

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Chicago gun

    Quote Originally Posted by Spool310 View Post
    The version of HF gun that I got has the dumb plastic looking piece that the rod goes through. Is that the one that you have ScottRods?
    I have one of those and one of the other too. I also have that EW Pro 1100 gun. I use it most, simply becasue it's easier to clean, and it's adjustable voltage. But I use the others too.... They all work fine for their money spent.

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