Gato Parts

[Merriman]

Originally Posted by wcb1863

David,

Many thanks for the good advice. I'll cut the smaller loop and shave the shaft on the strut to fit, loosely, a hole 1/32 () drilled into the stern planes axle.

I don't remember seeing the final assemby of the stern section. You do very carefully explain how the gadget works but don't (I think) show the actual final assembly. (I did find it easier to cut the lower skeg before glueing the forward portion to the port stern section.) Would it be easier to put the rudder in place and then glue the stern section together around it?

You do mention that the aft end of the skeg is adhered with a type of glue but I can't make out exactly what that glue is -- seems it would have to be a sturdy adhesive as the skeg is keeping the rudder from falling out the bottom of the boat.

You show the 1/16th copper wire used to attach the bow planes but not tacked in place. Are they CA'd or "welded" in place on disk 4? Would there be any great harm in CAing them in place when the halves of the planes are welded? Of course the strut and the axle would have to be attached at that time. My grooves in the planes interior are no way near the beauties that you accomplished so a bandaid might be to CA them in the monster wide gullies I created.

Are there any modifications that must be made to the sail? If not I could put it together while waiting for the new rudder. Saw your mention of an antenna through the periscope shears. How does it get through the tube and what is the diameter? If somewhat thin could it replace the boat's radio antenna running the length of the aft deck. Of course if it's too thick it would really ugly up the boat.

My mailing address is:

Walter Betkowski
306 Windward Island
Clearwater, FL 33767

I know I am getting to be a real pest but can't begin to tell you how much I appreciate your help.

Best,

Walter

Walt,

Whow! 1/32 is too small a pin-hole combination, the soft white-metal of that bell crank will bend. Shave it to 1/16" to fit a like sized bore in the stern plane operating shaft.

Yeah, work out the rudder and stern plane linkage (make them work to your satisfaction) before you assemble the stern section to the hull. I've changed the rudder-stern plane access scheme: I've dropped the idea of gluing the removable skeg piece (with RTV sealing adhesive) to attaching it with machine screws -- the skeg piece remains 'wild', it being secured with two 2-56 machine screws.

That would be 1/16" brass wire, not copper. Not a big deal. The axle pins are held in with little dabs of RTV adhesive (this permits removal of the planes from the operating shafts later, if needed). The strut pins are CA'ed in place and the hole at the leading edge of plane filled and faired in -- it'll take major surgery to dig those out, but you'll really have to cream the boat to warrant replacement of the strut to a plane. So, you're curing carving sins with CA used as a filler? Works for me. Helps to sprinkle on baking soda over the CA, makes a quick filler.

Naw, leave the SubDriver antenna below deck. Yes, build the sail stock, just open up a few big holes in the deck of the bridge and holes in the deck of the hull under where the sail sits -- you need these holes to vent the sail when you dive the boat.

knock off the sprue nubs and flash lines from each piece before you assembly the parts -- and use cohesive cement throughout, no CA! You'll find the fit very good. And watch out for those small gun pieces, they like to fall into the carpet.


David,

[wcb1863]

David,

How about a compromise on the stern planes shaft. CA the metal strut to the leading (forward) part of the nub rather than drilling a hole into it to hold the strut. This would put the bell crank (strut) in a forward position almost as if it were bent and save shaving and drilling . That nub really is small and short. Would CA and baking soda make a strong enough bond?

Will follow your adice on the bow planes. Actuially the hinge points for the axel did word nicely just as you described on the DVD. However, the long drill for the strut is wider that the Grand Canyon. (Got to get larger quantities of baking soda )

I've down loaded the Caswell catalog but can find no mention of RC materials anywhere. Is there a separate Caswell catalog for subs? If soi where?

To late to modify the lower skeg. I've already cut it into two pieces and glued the major piece to the port side of the stern section. I'll go ahead with the old plan.


Best,
Walter

[Merriman]

Originally Posted by wcb1863

David,

How about a compromise on the stern planes shaft. CA the metal strut to the leading (forward) part of the nub rather than drilling a hole into it to hold the strut. This would put the bell crank (strut) in a forward position almost as if it were bent and save shaving and drilling . That nub really is small and short. Would CA and baking soda make a strong enough bond?

Will follow your adice on the bow planes. Actuially the hinge points for the axel did word nicely just as you described on the DVD. However, the long drill for the strut is wider that the Grand Canyon. (Got to get larger quantities of baking soda )

I've down loaded the Caswell catalog but can find no mention of RC materials anywhere. Is there a separate Caswell catalog for subs? If soi where?

To late to modify the lower skeg. I've already cut it into two pieces and glued the major piece to the port side of the stern section. I'll go ahead with the old plan.


Best,
Walter

Walt,

No, you don't have the room in the narrow skeg area for the build up of baking soda-CA needed to insure it will not sheer off with stress. Swallow hard then punch out that 1/16" bore in the operating shaft, shave down the bell crank, and glue that sucker already!

Drill drifted on you a bit, did it?!

Look in the r/c sections of the Caswell catalog. Or write him, tell him Merriam said to fix you up (then place your phone receiver under a pillow or something) when the shouting stops, as him for the goods.

David,

[wcb1863]

David,

Alert the media. Revell (really FEDX) delivered the new rudder today!! Total cost was $6.52 for shipping and handling. How about that? Wowie, zowie. I'll have to rest up and try the hole again tomorrow. Pray.

Did complete the stern section with all appropriate parts as you designed it Would it be more practical to attempt to screw on the "cut" skeg piece rather than use the adhesive you recommended at first? Just might be able to fit two very small screws port and starboard of the bearings for the dive planes.

All best,

Walter

[Merriman]

Originally Posted by wcb1863

David,

Alert the media. Revell (really FEDX) delivered the new rudder today!! Total cost was $6.52 for shipping and handling. How about that? Wowie, zowie. I'll have to rest up and try the hole again tomorrow. Pray.

Did complete the stern section with all appropriate parts as you designed it Would it be more practical to attempt to screw on the "cut" skeg piece rather than use the adhesive you recommended at first? Just might be able to fit two very small screws port and starboard of the bearings for the dive planes.

All best,

Walter

Walter,

Hey! That's excellent turn-around! Way to go, Revell!

Draw a line on one side of the rudder where the internal 1/16" diameter bore will go. Drill a bit at a time from each end of the rudder, checking drill position in relation to the plane of the rudder as you poke it into the work. Take your time, work from both the top and bottom of the rudder and you'll do fine. Or ... fork over another seven bucks for another attempt!

Indeed, as far as the attachment scheme for the removable skeg piece, that's what I do now: I use two 2-56 X 1/2" long flat head machine screws to hold the skeg piece onto the hull -- much easier than dealing with the RTV adhesive. But the alignment of the two screws is front to back: one forward of the stern plane operating shaft bearing point, and one aft of the stern plane operating shaft bearing point.

If you're getting my Cabal Reports I'm getting one out today that describes the replacement stern plane assembly I've made for this kit -- a much stronger operating shaft and correctly shaped planes.

David,

[wcb1863]

David,

Heading down to the Keys for the weekend , so the rudder will wait until Tuesday. I will try the skeg screw plan. Is 1/2 inch really long enough? Seems that would barely go through that piece of the sheg.

No I do not receive your "Cabal Reports." Can you put me on the list?

Also did you send the resin prop tubes and dunce cap? Getting close to be able to use them.

Have a grreat weekend.

Walter

[Merriman]

Originally Posted by wcb1863

David,

Heading down to the Keys for the weekend , so the rudder will wait until Tuesday. I will try the skeg screw plan. Is 1/2 inch really long enough? Seems that would barely go through that piece of the sheg.

No I do not receive your "Cabal Reports." Can you put me on the list?

Also did you send the resin prop tubes and dunce cap? Getting close to be able to use them.

Have a grreat weekend.

Walter

Walter,

Yeah, 1/2" should reach.

To get put on my Cabal Report list (foul language a specialty) send me an e-mail. It's dmeriman@aol.com

Damn! Did you e-mail me with your address and I missed that? ... try again, please.

Have a good holiday, Walt.

David,

[wcb1863]

Ok, my address is:



Walter Betkowski

306 Windward Island

Clearwater, Fl 33767
David,


Return on this email will get me into the profane world of CABAL.



I do need 2 prop shaft tubes and 1 dunce cap.



I have the rudder done but would rather not say how – CA and baking soda can sure come in handy!!!! I did put some aluminum tubes in both the hole in the skeg and in the upper portion of the rudder to gain a bit more stability and cut down the wobble I caused in over drilling the holes. And so it goes.

more questions:

1- How did you create a place for the screws to enter and hold given the limited area and the necessuty for the biow planes to travel a workable arc?

2- I noticed that you supplied a split axel for the bow planes but the DVD shows the install of the planes using the Revell supplied split axel. Is that still the way to go? Yours or theirs.



3- My limited research shows that most WWII operational Gatos were painted a semi gloss black throughout – wasn’t until near the end of the war that they went to the three tone color scheme that Revell suggests. Any thoughts?



4- Are you working on DVD IV? How can I get a copy when it is ready? Really interested in how that tube works.



5- You suggested large holes in the deck under the sail and additional holes in the cigarette deck. Can the holes for the cigarette deck be hidden in the interior of the sail and can you suggest number of holes and diameter. Is placement an issue? Is the purpose simple to drain the sail quickly? Top heavy boat is a not a good thing given the delicate balance the shape of the hull demands.



Moving along = Bow and stern sections complete, (but for prop shaft tubes) and center section is all dug out. Sail is 80% done. Nightmares about cutting the hull in half increasing and more horrible!!!!!!! (Did you see that Wal-Mart is selling the Revell Gato for $59.87?)



All best,



Walter

[Anuci]

Hey Dave, Your patience has improved enormously, & that Atkins diet works in more than one way. It appears you have acquired the patience of Jobe, from your continued responses to Walt. Certainly not the picture Mike paints,lol Just kidding Dave. Your a good man, despite yourself. BTW, can this smart ass still get a new an improved D&E stern plane assembly? It sure doesn't take much to destroy these plastic parts, ask Mike, I'm sure he'll agree on that. Al,

[Merriman]

Originally Posted by Anuci

Hey Dave, Your patience has improved enormously, & that Atkins diet works in more than one way. It appears you have acquired the patience of Jobe, from your continued responses to Walt. Certainly not the picture Mike paints,lol Just kidding Dave. Your a good man, despite yourself. BTW, can this smart ass still get a new an improved D&E stern plane assembly? It sure doesn't take much to destroy these plastic parts, ask Mike, I'm sure he'll agree on that. Al,

Hey! Up Your's, Pal!!

(how's that? We up to speed now?)

I've got your planes and solid operating shaft with bellcrank already in a mailer, addressed and going out this morning.

Had a ball at the recent SubRegatta -- the SC and the Admiral's put on one hell of a show!

David,