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fading methods

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  • fading methods

    iam trying to fade paintball guns and would like some methods in doing so[/list]

  • #2
    Fades and Splashes are both pretty guarded secrets in the anodizing trade. Best thing I can tell you is try and see what works!



    • #3
      Yeh I've been round a few of the forums (I noticed you on a few also Tim) and as you say it's a well guarded subject. I would say that's it's only a matter of time before the penny drops though and someone cashes in on the fact so many people want to know how to do it! Maybe a book. If there was some ancillary equipment required maybe caswell could post the info and cash in - but do they know how to do it is the question........


      • #4
        On second thoughts maybe only those that put the work into finding out deserve to know. They'll have worked out the next thing just as we solve this one (Maybe you know of course Tim!). Fair play.


        • #5
          Fades are no big secret - just common sense.

          You need to consider exactly what you are trying to do, then experiment with dying times.

          How long does it take the dye to reach the maximum color required?
          How long does it take to dye to the minimum color required?
          How far down the part do you want the fade to run?

          So, lets say the part to be fade dyed is 10" long
          Say it takes 100 seconds to reach maximum color
          Therefore the part should be removed from the dye at the rate of 1" per 10 seconds.

          So, by plunging in the part DARKEST END FIRST, then slowly removing it, you'll achieve your fade quite easily.

          You could hang the part on a string at reel it up 1" every 10 seconds
          Or get a slow motor with a thin shaft and wrap the string around the shaft. You'd need to dabble with shaft diameters and motor speeds if you wanted to mass produce

          Free 25 amp rectifier to the first person who produces a complete working setup, duly documented with text and photos.
          Mike Caswell
          Caswell Inc

          Need Support? Visit our online support section at


          • #6
            I had thought that because the dye takes to the anodisied surface at slower rate as the dying progresses that you would need to compensate with the speed you take the part out. I assumed that this way of doing it would be a bit crude - but I guess with experimentation it would come good.


            • #7
              Originally posted by caswell
              Free 25 amp rectifier to the first person who produces a complete working setup, duly documented with text and photos.
              Now that's what I like to see, a challenge! 'Though I personally don't use fades, I guess it's time for me to start experimenting. Thanks for the lofty prize, you've definately gotten my attention.


              • #8
                A contest. Good idea Mike!

                Moderators are of course disqualified from entering this contest. This is for the general membership only.


                • #9
                  Does that one extend to UK customers!


                  • #10
                    Why would it not? A customer is a customer.


                    • #11
                      You might just want to look at how they die gradiated sunglass lenses at any one hour eyeglass place. Same deal, no secrets, probably even same dies, I remember they had to be heated up to about 140 deg also.


                      • #12

                        I live in the middle of a field of sheep in the Hills in the North of Scotland - I'm used to people refusing to send me stuff or not getting things that have been sent to me because the package fell off the donkeys back down some chasm on the way. Well, maybe a slight exaggeration. Thank god for the internet is all I can say!


                        • #13
                          has anybody done this yet. woundering if i should waste my time. have all the parts just need some time on the lathe and mill for the parts i couldn't buy.