fader project in works *edit* (it works)

[lastone75]

i've been working on this for a few weeks now. all thats left is building a stand. snd getting a another 12 volt power supply.

i'm using a 12v dc 8rmp with a pulse timer relay to slow it down. heres a seek peek of the drive and shaft.

[lastone75]

completed

finshed it off to day made the stand out of pvc pipe. so this way it makes it cheap to play with heights. but heres the rest of the pictures.

[NeoMoses]

Looks pretty nice so far. I want to see some of your results with it

[lastone75]

hopefully i get to test it today.

[lastone75]

some picture of anodized scrap

these scarps weren't the best. plus i didn't do a good job clean or polishing them let alone my sealers ph was way off. so these pictures aren't for nothing more then to see if a fader can be done. and worth while.


the smaller part in the pictures was the first atempt. the fade failed cause the pull out speed was to slow. the peice is ruffly 7" long and the color starts 1" from the end. it took 26 minutes to get the part out of the dye. way to slow. lol




the longer peice was the second atempt. the fade starts in the midle of the piece. i started this with the motor backing it allittl faster and after about an 1" or to out i slowed the motor down again. but not slow enough.
took ruffly 15 to 20 minutes on this one. takes a little getting used to but i think it's well worth the time it will take to figure it out to suit my needs.



takes a little getting used to but i think it's well worth the time it will take to figure it out to suit my needs.

so basicaly if you do a faster speed out at first to get the beging of the fade then slowly decrease the speed of the motor to get a deep color on the end. any question feel free to ask.

this entire setup was build by me in my free time. as a hobby michinest i think this was alot of fun to design and build

[lastone75]

couple more picture since what i see in person and what you

in a picture are 2 difrent things

[mcaswell]

Wonderful stuff!

Thanks for all the hard work you've shared with us.

Perhaps you could make some notes on times, and lengths of fades, so we could produce some sort of chart?

[lastone75]

[potsked]

im sorry, but is sitting there for like 10 minutes dipping the part in and out of the dye that hard to do, its what ive been doing. its how i got these results

http://www.sexyturtle.com/P7210031.jpg

http://www.sexyturtle.com/P9010014.jpg

just my advice, that whole complicated contraption might be a little hard for people to make.

hey since i figured this one out without having to fabricate a motorized fader, and waste oodles of time, can i get the reward?

[lastone75]

i've do it that way. but with certin colors it's hard to try and get the efect you realy want. this actauly makes it easier to get a longer fade with a deeper color change and no drastic lines. in short it gives you more control. plus i didn't exactly design it so you can just grab a bunch of parts and slap it together. so i don't expect anyone to just build one.

it's just any eisier sulotion and using some of the pro setup design to make this. if i could find someone to make me a inexpncive cnc type contorler this would make it even more easier.

[Easttex]

almost ready with fade aparatus

My set up is almost complete. It uses a small gear motor much like Lastone's rig but with a lever and a cam setup that raises and lowers the part on the dye tank. Constant motion will yield no gradient lines or hard breaks from color to color. The stroke begins with the lever in the horizontal position, any of the part that is submerged at this point in the cycle will be at Dmin. This way you can easily control the position in the cycle where the fade actually gets the least dye. As the irregular shaped cam rotates slowly it slowly raises and lowers the part from the Dmin to the Dmax point. The rigs mount is over the line of tanks, (three on each level), the rig can slide side to side or move forward and backwards on variable position mount bars. The stroke is adjusted by the cams you mount on the drive arbour of the gear motor. By doing it this way your time in the tank should remain more consistent over a large range of part sizes rather than time being determined by the length of the part being faded. As I mentioned it is not yet finished but almost there, I've been working on it for a couple of weeks now in my spare time (HA HA). I'll get pics posted in the next couple of days. My rig should be pretty automated and very controllable and consistent if my theories are correct. It will be up very soon.
EasTTex

[lastone75]

easttex sounds cool but seems a little more compicated then mine. with my setup i can look up parts to make it easy for people to build with plans.

seems to me you have alot of michining time into your design. not breaking balls are anything like that.

but mine went way off the origanal design. ran low on miteral and didn't feel like setting up the big lathe either.

if any one is intersrested in my design i will find the time to get part numbers and part list to make this set. easy for you guy to build.

[Easttex]

Actually its not complicated at all. A motor that turns an off centered cam and a lever that raises and lowers on it. The end of it is fixed on a bearing so it just raises and lowers the part continually, while the middle of the lever rides on the cam that is rotating. Not to tough of a concept........ EasTTex
P.S. I've been so busy working on the air system, I haven't got the finishing touches put on the fader. I'm digitally impaired as well. One of these days I'll break down and buy a digital camera.