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SICK OF BAD CONNECTIONS? SEE THE SPUT WELDER - NOW AVAILABLE

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  • #16
    I'm ready to buy one! Any idea when they will be available? How about pricing?

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    • #17
      I can't answer either of your questions now. I will have more information in July. Rest assured that this product development project is going full tilt, and everything is working out better than I anticipated.

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      • #18
        Any New updates?

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        • #19
          I am also very interested in progress on this equipment.
          I've looked at this company for similar solution, specifically the battery operated mini welder.

          http://www.iaid.com/acatalog/The_Man..._Units_69.html

          Like the insulated plier for holding the wire.

          Hope the unit discussed in this forum will be available for a good price.

          Best regards,

          Danny

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          • #20
            A little backround on what a thermocouple welder is will help:

            Thermocouples are temperature sensors, commonly used to measure equipment and facility temperatures in (usually) a factory using heavy industrial processes (like a steel mill). Knowing how hot (or cold) things are getting is necessary. Welding the thermocouple to the object being monitored is common practice. Since these sensors can be located anywhere in the factory (like on pipes hanging from the ceiling) having the welder battery powered makes a lot of sense, and is also common in this type of equipment. Unfortunately since this is welding; the batteries are big, heavy, and expensive. The voltages this thermocouple welder operates at can exceed 80V, which makes them high enough to be dangerous, this thing can certainly give you a nasty electrical shock. The semiconductor switch (the SCR mentioned) is probably necessary to help avoid a shock in normal use, but at these current levels (over 1000 Amps) they aren't cheap either. If you were to use a mechanical switch, it would be as big as the switches in a Frankenstein movie.

            The CDW isn't battery powered, for its intended applications this would make no sense. It operates at 50V maximum, with the majority of applications operating between 25 and 35 Volts. This keeps it at the safe level, and it has no switch in the high current path. The energy levels are similar to the thermocouple welder; which means that you probably could use the CDW to weld thermocouples, or the thermocouple welder to make anodizing and plating connections.

            I didn't see any prices, but I think it would be safe to say that the CDW will be much lower in price than the thermocouple welder, just by comparing feature sets.

            I appreciate your patience guys, more details will be provided soon, we are making real good progress.

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            • #21
              Man, that little gizmo would do wonders for taking dings out of motorcycle pipes.. "Sput" a piece of wire in the center of the ding, heat the area with a torch and work it out. Slick..

              I'm thinking yes, but would that thing work for powder coating applications as well??

              Pretty slick Fibergeek!

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              • #22
                Fibergeek,

                I think i can wait a bit longer for this remarkable equipment but pls. can you also account for non usa customers, 220 V supply versus 110 V USA.

                Looking forward to the final product.

                Best regards,

                Danny

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                • #23
                  Borgen,
                  We will be able to provide the unit set up for 220 VAC European use.

                  Skiddz,
                  Don't forget about the weld blemish. If you're pulling a dent out its probably in a place where it will show. Interesting idea, it might work.

                  If by powder coat application you mean to weld a wire to the work for the electrical connection, yes it will work. Use iron or mild steel wire (bailing wire) on steel. Since you only need to maintain a charge on the work to attract the paint particles (very low current) you can use very small wire, which makes the weld blemish even smaller.

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                  • #24
                    Hi Fibergeek, any idea of how long before it will be available for sale.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by dropride
                      Hi Fibergeek, any idea of how long before it will be available for sale.
                      Or post the schematics just like for the power supply. That will do fine for me.

                      Regards, Danny

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                      • #26
                        I wrote a fairly extensive post the other day about the sput welder and the parts done with it, and just when it was posting lighting caused a power failure. So I finally found a few minutes to do it over.

                        These parts are some I have anodized while testing the welded wire method. They turned out good, if I do say so myself. (Note that the black pieces are black oxided tool steel) It takes a fair amount of work to machine parts like this, so it's always a bit of relief to get them finished with no problems. Not that there's any doubt on the electrical aspect with a welded wire.

                        The large part has over 300 square inches of surface area, and was done with over 20 amps of current just for the one large piece. With the welded wire there isn't any worry about connections causing a problem.

                        I have noticed one distinct disadvantage when processing parts with the sput welder, although people who normally use hanging wires anyway wouldn't likely notice this. I find that rigid racking is more convienient in one sense, especially when doing multiple parts per batch (which is 99.99% of the case with us). With only a wire to use for handling, it is more difficult to handle the parts while cleaning, rinsing, and placing in the tanks so they don't touch or get banged up.

                        Of course the bullet proof connection (electrically speaking, since the wire could be broken off if handled roughly) of a welded wire is attractive when you need to be eliminate all possible problems. Next time, on parts such as these, I think I will attach a wire to the part to ensure the best possible electrical connection, and fixture the parts on a rack for ease of handling. This would give the best of both worlds, the parts would be securely seperated and easy to handle, and the electrical connection would be postitive.

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                        • #27
                          Thanks M_D.

                          I noticed a piece that I anodized was swinging wildly in the tank, the agitation was so vigorous that the part hydro-planed. My agitation system cycles all of the electrolyte in 43 sec (the proverbial "tempest in a teapot"). This is actually more agitation than anyone would need short of Type III (hardcoat). Nothing broke, and it was very small wire (22 AWG). More careful wire placement would have elliminated the hydroplane effect.

                          Another idea for multiple large-ish pieces is to weld the wire to the work and to an aluminum bar which suspends them and controls the part spacing, don't make the wires any longer than necessary. The bar becomes the common connection point. If the job will tolerate this, use a second wire for stability and/or larger wire. The bar stays out of the electrolyte, this removes nearly all parasitic resistance (no rack) which will improve accuracy, reduce the required current, and lower the power dissipation.

                          I now have over $ 9K of my own money invested in the CDW, and 8 months of work, I'm not about to post the schematics and just give it away. I know I promised more information in July; sorry guys, I need a little more time. When you know why; you will understand, and you will be pleased that I went the extra distance.

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                          • #28
                            One thing I forgot to mention is that when you want to dye more than one color in a batch, it's a lot more convienent with individual wires. It's difficult and risky to transfer parts from a rigid rack to various dyes tanks after they are anodized.

                            I haven't done the complete 2011 tests I mentioned before. I think it is something that may be attractive to certain people though, since 2011 is popular in automatic lathes for a couple of reasons, one major one being the chips break up better and don't foul the tools up with stringy chips like 6061 and other alloys do. I know for a fact that dying multiple pieces of 2011 on a rack causes dye quality problems, that much I have proven to myself. If the parts are anodized and dyed on a rack, they will get spotty before dying to a deep color. If a light to medium color is ok, then a short dye time will lessen the problem.

                            If they are removed and hung on individual wires, either Ti or aluminum, the problem goes away. The dark colors, especially black, is not as noticable. I have anodized a rack of 2011 parts (not just once, but numerous times), pulled half off and hung them individually to dye, and dyed the rest on the rack. The individually hung parts can then be dyed untill the color is deep and will stay spot free, the racked ones will get spots every single time if left in the dye too long.

                            Anyway, except that the 2011 anodizes to a duller finish than 6061, everything else being equal, you can get a pretty decent finish on it that way. The welded wire method could be the answer for select people who would like to improve certain high value 2011 parts. If you would like, I would sent a batch of small machined 2011 parts for you to test with.

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                            • #29
                              Any new news on when the sput welder will be available?

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                              • #30
                                Finally!
                                We have our act together enough to give you all some information that we can be sure of:

                                There will be two models of the CDW.

                                1. The Type 5, which is vastly improved, faster, and more powerful than the prototype "Sput Welder" in Caswell's movie. It will put out 100 Joules of Energy ( the Sput Welder would do 85 Joules) Is much more accurate, and is designed to stand up to continuous commercial use.

                                2. The Type 6, A vastly cost reduced Sput Welder. This one puts out 44 Joules, which will handle aluminum wire up to (and including) 14 AWG. It is intended for occasional (hobby) use. The Type 6 is 1/2 the price of a Sput Welder but will handle nearly any job that the Sput Welder can, just slower.

                                The prices are:

                                $250.00 each for the 100 Joule Type 5. (only the Type 6 is cheaper)

                                $150.00 each for the 44 Joule Type 6. (5X cheaper than anything on the Market)

                                You can place orders with Caswell right now. Lead time is 4-6 weeks for the Type 6, the Type 5 will take 2-4 weeks longer (sorry). The lead times will improve substantially in a month or two.

                                Each unit comes complete, ready to use, nothing to buy. They both include a 10 ft. coil of 16 AWG coil of aluminum wire, the necessary power cube, the necessary copper alligator clips, and a very detailed user's manual.

                                If you require a European 220 VAC power cube, specify this at time of order.

                                (edited to add)

                                Caswell is working on the web page that will have pictures and detailed descriptions.

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