Screws and small parts

[kickn]

Any suggestions on how to rack for small screws/etc. I was thinking an aluminum perforated tray or something - whats normally used?

Could a strip of led with small holes that the screws could be threaded into slighly work?

[Fibergeek]

Any of those things mentioned could work. Remember that the object is a liquid tight connection. If you don't have this you know what will happen.

"Basket" anodizing is common for small hardware. This involves a stainless steel or titanium basket (lots of holes in it) and a perforated lid with a means to tightly squeeze all of the hardware into good contact with each other. This leaves small unanodized patches where contact was made. This method also requires extremely vigorous agitation in all of the anodizing, rinsing, dyeing, and sealing steps.

(edited for correction)

All those things except just letting the hardware lay in a tray, a lousy connection is practically assured with that.

[kickn]

I think I may go for a strip of lead as its cheap and the surface area would be as minimal as possible. I want a balance between a good finish and efficiency. Quickly screwing these into pre-drilled holes shoudl be easy and as far as I'm aware the lead will hold up to multiple processes will it not?

Question on STainless: is this okay to use in the tank as ali, titanium, and lead?

[Fibergeek]

Wernick, Pinner, and Sheasby describe large production tanks that use stainless steel cathodes.

Stainless steel is less conductive than either aluminum or lead, not that different from titanium. I haven't looked into this, but the right stainless steel alloy could be a viable lower cost alternative to titanium racking. We continue to recommend that no metals other than aluminum, lead, and titanium be allowed in the anodizing tank. Copper remains the worst common metal.

[mcaswell]

Has anyone ever tried that old aluminum flyscreen? That should be very easy to push small objects into and it won't contaminate anything.

[kickn]

no - but its worth a try

how about also - some perforated aluminum sheet - you could get a size thats just under the screw size and thread it slightly.

[sgunn911]

I have tried the aluminum screening used for screen doors on small screws. Out of 30 screws not one kept the connection and wasn't able to get any finished. I did end up with a really nice red aluminum mesh though.....

[kickn]

I was thinking of something heaver - in the 'perforated sheet' class vs. the mesh area. - any success with that?

[kickn]

I know i've restarted this thread and then remembered this one - sorry guys - please don't hit me

how about some of what we call over here modders mesh - i'm pretty sure its made out of aluminium - if it is would this work in a very tightly stretched bundle?

[Chani]

Re: Screws and small parts

I'm VERY new to this, so forgive me for asking, but where would you get a titanium or aluminum basket that would work for bulk anodizing small parts?

Another question that I have is, is there a way to NOT have any spots that are not anodized using this method? Such as, would it be possible to anodize, then loosen the basket cover, shake the parts, tighten it back up again, then anodize again?

A little explanation: I do chainmaille, and I'd like to be able to make and anodize my own aluminum rings. I'd like to anodize the rings AFTER they're cut so that there is NO bare aluminum showing instead of coiling the aluminum wire and cutting them after anodizing the coils.

The company I currently buy my rings from sends them out to an anodizing company, and the rings have NO spots on them. They're anodized after being cut from coils.

I'd like to know how to achieve the same results.

Thank you!!!

Chani

[sage]

Re: Screws and small parts

Your not going to find a method of connection that does not leave a mark, The trick would be to minimize the size of, and possibly the location of the mark. compressing them in a basket is the "normal" method of doing things but you can't anodize - shake - anodize. The ano coating is non-conductive and when you re-distribute them they will then be touching on non-conductive surfaces and that will be the end of the anodizing process.

I don't think screwing them into anything is going to work either unless you can screw them in tight. Like into a plate of aluminum. But then you have the issue of the un-anodized area being in the threads and under the head. Maybe that's not a problem.
Lead is going to be too soft to get them tight enough - I think.

There is heavy aluminum expanded metal that you might be able to screw a screw into the hgaps of and get it tight enough. That would save you threading a million holes in a plate. The trick would be to find a gauge of that that suits the size of the threads. The problem there is you'd have to strip the expanded metal to use it over again. The plate might be better on that count because the used holes would still be clear of anodizing.

Sage

[acidrain]

Re: Screws and small parts

Loosening the basket and moving the parts around half way through the ano process would be a bad thing... You will loose connection, and the parts will not continue to anodize.
There a couple of guys here that ano chainmail, and I believe they cut the coils after ano... usually with a jewlery saw.
Try searching chainmail or chain mail.

[destroyer125]

Re: Screws and small parts

anodize the coil, then run it through an AMS, Drill press Saw, or jump ringer

[hurricaneracing]

Re: Screws and small parts

I have purchased "pinch plates" from servisure they are flat plates with very thin cuts along the sides. I have to wedge the small parts inbetween them. This leaves a tiny spot that the dye usually flows through and covers.

[IAMaxxer]

Re: Screws and small parts

Just wondering if any one has come up with a fool poof idea.... I have a job needing to do 100 screws and of course looking for the easiest way out....