I am producing ,any graphics on parts using paint masks. The only problem is the adhesive left behind. Any suggestions?
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Same problem I'm having right now. I have found rubber cement works pretty good as a liquid mask. Pre-cut masks like flames and such (rc hobby shops) make nice crisp lines, but leave residue, especially the positioning backer.
I saw a liquid mask at Caswell, but haven't tried it yet.
Caswell, that stuff work well and peel off clean after ano, and between colored dyes?
I've seen Gucci patterns in ano, digital camo, all kinds of cool stuff, but nobody is willing to say how... Anybody?I do things.
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I have the same question... I would like to be able to dye parts with multiple colors, using one mask, and then another. The problem is that anything that touches the freshly anodized surface with adhesive (even the low tack stuff) causes it to not take dye. I believe the adhesive is blocking the pores. If you wipe the adhesive off with alcohol or acetone you get the same result. The liquid mask doesn't seem like the best answer. How are you supposed to apply the mask without having some sort of stencil? Anyway, if anyone has a process that they use to successfully apply multiple colors to an anodized surface, I would appreciate some pointers. Thanks
Tim
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okay this is the method I use over and over again. #1 anodize piece as you normally would#2 dye the piece what ever color you want your graphic to be #3 apply the graphic mask #4 bleach the piece in approx 1 quart bleach to one gallon water #4 rinse thouroughly under the tap #5 If any discoloration is left dip the piece in the ano bath. it usuall clears it right up. #5 rinse and repeat prosess from step 2 as many times as nessecary.
As far as applying masks I always try to use vinyls. this is my method. #1 get your vinyl UNweeded and cut out around the design if you are using rc masks with alot of stuff you dont want to use at this time. #2 spray the top side of the mask with contact adhesive. I use DUCO brand I get at walmart cause its cheap. #3 weed the vinyl being careful not to touch the backing with the adhesive. I usually use tweezers and an exacto knife. # 4 cover the vinyl in clear plastic (I have cut pieces of freezer bags to do this) #5 Carefully remove backing and apply mask using the clear plastic now glued to your mask. Agood rule of thumb is once the mask touches the piece DONT try to remove it or you will have a flaw where it touched. use the process above and when you are done pull all the masks off and drop the piece in your boiling sealer and in a few minutes you can either rub the adhesive off with a clean rag or go ahead and seal the part and wipe it off with some laquer thinner when you are done. I always wash my work with hot water and dawn dish soap after everything is done and I never have any residues left.
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go to www.ps1anodizing.com to see some of my other work. I kinda got carried away on the little bike. now my 6 year old is mad cause I stole his bike......oh well
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was playing arround today with the vinyl cutter and thought i would try it.
note the preping on the part wasn't the best. and the time in the tank was extremly short. plus my agitaor pump broke half way in. so now i need to try and find a prop for it.
oh yeah what a bitch to get the vinyl off afterwards. but do's leave nice sharp lines.
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oh yeah back to the origanl question
removing the adhesive left behind.
i found that steaming the parts after annoing and then hitting it with wd40 takes it off with a lite rubbing. then soap and water and it looks great.
but i uasual let it sit with the wd40 on it over night before washing.
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